big beans and tomato vinaigrette.

Two weeks ago I returned from vacation in Portugal.  I want to write about it.  And I will!  At some point!  Mostly because people keep asking me for my itinerary (I think this is a testament to what an epic planner I am)  but I haven’t gone through all my photos and I’m still waiting on film to come back and I figure when I can finally digest everything, I’ll write about it.

Until then,  let’s talk about produce.  Specifically tomatoes. 

Most days I’m dreaming about tomato sandwiches.  Weekends are for making tomato confit in an effort to freeze a little bit of summer.  I’m spending a lot of money on heirloom tomatoes in every shape, size, and color.  There are worse vices you could have.   

I’ve made this dish twice since seeing it in the August issue of Bon Appetit.  I can’t even begin to tell you how much I love it - it can actually be a meal!  Especially if you round it out with some good bread and a couple of nice cheeses.  If you’re fortunate enough to live near a farmers market where you can get fresh beans, use them here. 

Big Beans and Tomato Vinaigrette

Recipe via Bon Appetit

For the Beans

Handful of oregano sprigs

Handful of thyme sprigs

2 bay leaves

8 oz. dried butter beans, rinsed, soaked overnight if possible

1 medium onion, halved

1 large carrot, scrubbed, coarsely chopped

Kosher salt

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

For the Vinaigrette and Assembly

10 oz. cherry tomatoes or 1½ cups chopped heirloom or beefsteak tomatoes

1 garlic clove, smashed

3 Tbsp. red wine vinegar

⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

Kosher salt

2 lb. assorted heirloom, beefsteak, and/or cherry tomatoes

Freshly ground black pepper

Handful of basil leaves

Mild red pepper flakes (such as Aleppo-style or Maras)

Make the Beans - Tie together oregano, thyme, and bay leaves with kitchen twine. Combine beans, onion, carrot, and herbs in a medium pot. Pour in water to cover beans by about 4" and bring to a very gentle simmer over medium-high heat. Immediately reduce heat and cook at the barest of simmers, stirring hardly at all, until beans are creamy and tender at the center but not falling apart or mushy, about 1½ hours (this could take longer, depending on the beans). The key is to not agitate, which will help the beans maintain their shape. Remove pot from heat; season beans aggressively with salt. Gently stir in oil. Let cool. Drain beans; discard onion, carrot, and herbs.

Do Ahead: Beans can be made 2 days ahead. Keep in liquid; cover and chill.

Vinaigrette and Assembly - Purée cherry tomatoes in a blender. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in garlic, vinegar, and ⅓ cup oil; season with salt. Let sit 15–20 minutes, then pluck out garlic.

Transfer drained beans to a medium bowl and add vinaigrette; toss gently to coat. Taste and add more salt if needed.

Slice, halve, or quarter heirloom tomatoes and arrange on a platter or divide among individual plates. Season with salt and pepper and drizzle with oil. Spoon beans along with plenty of vinaigrette over; top with basil and a few pinches of red pepper flakes.

tomatoes with spiced yogurt sauce, feta, and pistachios.

August.  (This is joy, this is summer.  Frank Ocean)

I haven’t been cooking so much as assembling things on a plate and avoiding the oven.  It’s been a fun game of figuring out how many ways you can eat raw corn and tomatoes (the answer is a lot of ways).  Most of my dinner inspiration has come from the Six Seasons cookbook.  If you don’t own it, I highly suggest you rush out to buy it.  It’s by far my most used cookbook and an endless source of ideas.  Joshua McFadden just gets vegetables much in the same way Yotam Ottolenghi does (his vegetable books are also fantastic).   He understands why pairing in-season produce with different textures and flavors will also result in a dish that is exciting.   

In taking inspiration from his cookbook, I’ve been challenging myself to come up with my own hot weather salads.  This dish was born from that challenge.   Sliced heirloom tomatoes are drizzled with a spiced yogurt sauce, pistachios, feta, and herbs.  The whole thing comes together in about 10 minutes and works as a side to sausages or BBQ chicken.  On its own, it also makes an excellent dinner for one on a hot summer night.   

Tomatoes with Spiced Yogurt Sauce, Feta, and Pistachios

3 -4 Medium sized heirloom tomatoes (or a combination of regular tomatoes and cherry tomatoes)

¼ cup yogurt

1 tablespoon olive oil

Juice of ½ a lemon

¼ tsp. Aleppo Pepper

Salt and pepper to taste

2 – 3  tablespoons toasted pistachios, chopped

¼ cup crumbled feta 

Mint leaves for garnish

In a small bowl combine the lemon juice, yogurt, aleppo, salt, and pepper.  Taste and adjust seasonings as necessary.  The yogurt should be runny like half and half.  If too thick, add more lemon juice or a little water.   

Slice the tomatoes (or quarter if using cherry tomatoes) and arrange on a platter.  Season with salt and pepper.  Drizzle with yogurt sauce and olive oil.  Sprinkle pistachios, feta, and mint leaves over the top.   Serve with bread for sopping up juices.   

blistered green beans with tomato-almond pesto.

I made this dish on a whim earlier this week  and I am very glad I did.   

We buy most of our produce on at the Saturday farmer’s market and during the week before leaving for work, I perform a mental checklist of what’s in the fridge and what needs to be used-up and from there I build dinner.   If I’m feeling un-inspired or particularly bored with whatever I think I should be making I perform a Google search consisting of “NYTIMES or Bon Appetit + INSERT VEGETABLE HERE” and see what pop’s up.  Sometimes this works, sometimes it doesn’t but whatever the outcome it usually helps me to come-up with some kind of game plan.    

This time it worked!

This is my new favorite way to eat green beans.   Cooked in a cast iron skillet until blistered in spots and tossed in a smoked paprika and tomato laced “pesto” that tastes like a combination of Romanesco and gazpacho.   It’s a bright, punchy, and the perfect side for grilled meat or fish.  

Blistered Green Beans With Tomato-Almond Pesto

Recipe from Bon Appetit

2 pints cherry tomatoes

¼ cup unsalted, roasted almonds

1 garlic clove, grated

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons Sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

Pinch of cayenne pepper

Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper

3 teaspoons vegetable oil

2 pounds haricots verts or green beans, trimmed

Preheat oven to 450°. Roast tomatoes on a rimmed baking sheet, turning once, until blistered and lightly charred, 15–20 minutes. Let cool slightly. Finely chop almonds in a food processor. Add garlic, olive oil, vinegar, paprika, cayenne, and half of tomatoes; pulse to a coarse pesto consistency. Season with salt and pepper.

Heat 1½ tsp. vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Add half of beans; cook, undisturbed, until beginning to blister, about 2 minutes. Toss and continue to cook, tossing occasionally, until tender, 7–9 minutes; season with salt and pepper. Spread beans out on a platter; let cool. Repeat with remaining vegetable oil and beans.

Toss beans with pesto; season with salt and pepper if needed. Add remaining tomatoes and transfer to a platter.

Do Ahead: Dish can be made 3 hours ahead. Store tightly wrapped at room temperature. Toss and adjust seasoning just before serving.

andalusian gazpacho.

It's f-ing hot.   Not just hot but humid, muggy, and all around awful.  I just want to sit in a pool with an icy cocktail and a good book.    

In this weather, food just isn't appealing which is why I've found myself consuming gazpacho with abandon. Gazpacho is one of those things you either love or hate.  I personally love it.  It's refreshing yet satisfying, the way watermelon and ice cream is when the temperature are nearing 100 degrees.   

This particular gazpacho recipe is my go-to and has been for the last couple of years (it's a good way to use up any tomatoes that are nearing the end of their life).  The addition of smoked paprika, sherry vinegar, and olive oil results in an incredibly flavorful and well-rounded soup that I can't get enough of.   It makes for a perfect summer starter but I have no problem consuming a bowl of it as my meal.  

Andalusian Gazpacho
Recipe adapted from Serious Eats 

The original recipe is a little finiky since it has you freeze the vegetables so thee soup, after being blended, is already chilled and ready to eat.  I omit those steps and just place the soup in the fridge for an hour to chill it (a lazy person's approach and I'm ok with that).   I omit the onion because I loathe the flavor of raw red onion - if you aren't opposed to it, feel free to add it in.  Also I added in a little smoked Spanish paprika because I love that flavor with sherry vinegar and tomatoes.  

3 pounds (about 4 large) very ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into rough 1-inch chunks
1/2 pound (about 1 small) cucumber, peeled, seeded, and cut into rough 1-inch chunks
1/3 pound (about 1 small) small red onion, peeled and cut into rough 1-inch chunks (optional)
1/3 pound (about 1 medium) green or red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into rough 1-inch chunks
2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste
4 ounces (about 2 slices) white sandwich, French, or Italian bread, crusts removed, torn into rough 1-inch pieces (see note)
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
1 teaspoon smoked paprika (spicy or sweet)
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar, plus more for serving
2 tablespoons finely minced chives
Freshly ground black pepper

Combine tomatoes, cucumber, onion (if using), pepper, garlic, salt, and bread in a large bowl and toss to coat thoroughly. Let sit at room temperature for 30 - 45 minutes.

Working in two batches as necessary, blend vegetables, juices, and bread at high speed, slowly drizzling olive oil and sherry vinegar into blender as it blends. Season to taste with salt and black pepper and add the smoked paprika. Place the soup in the fridge until cool.  Serve, drizzling each bowl with olive oil, a few sprinkles of sherry vinegar, extra cracked black pepper, and chives. Gazpacho can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

roasted tomato-basil tart.

While I love a good raw tomato (preferably eaten with burrata and basil) I love (head over heels love) oven-roasted tomatoes; something about their concentrated flavor just makes me crazy.  They work in sandwiches and are the ideal addition to cheesy scrambled eggs (you don't have to deal with that watery mess that can plague fresh tomatoes).  This is why I've declared them one of the most perfect foods.  Over the last couple of weeks, I've been buying up as many San Marzano plum tomatoes as possible and spending lazy Sundays reading in bed while my tomatoes roast.  It's not a bad way to spend a day. 

But where roasted tomatoes really shine is in a tart.   When you bake a tart with fresh tomatoes you have to deal with that awful watery tomato juice mess which causes the tart base to get soggy and turn into mush.  We don't want a mushy tart.  We want crispy and buttery and tender!  Roasted tomatoes solve that problem and also provide an extra element of flavor i.e. unmami and we love unmami.  

This tart takes some time, but it's mostly hands-off which makes it an ideal weekend project.  Slow-roasted tomatoes get nestled in a buttery crust along with aged cheddar and a mess of caramelized onions and basil.  It's true fall comfort food and the kind of thing you crave while you still have tomatoes at the market.   

Roasted Tomato-Basil Tart

Recipe from Leites Culinaria 

For the Slow-Roasted Tomatoes

2 pounds plum tomatoes (or smallish heirloom tomatoes of any sort)

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary

 Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the Tart Dough

1 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for the work surface

1/4 teaspoon salt

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small pieces

4 to 5 tablespoons ice water

For the Tart

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced

 Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/2 pound St. George or medium-aged white Cheddar cheese, shredded

1/2 cup chiffonade of fresh basil (that means cut into long, narrow strips)

2 tablespoons crème fraîche

1 large egg mixed with 1 tablespoon whole milk

Make the slow-roasted tomatoes:  Preheat the oven to 225°F (107°C).

Cut each tomato in half crosswise. (Alternatively, if using large plum tomatoes or any size heirloom tomatoes, thickly slice the tomatoes crosswise into about 4 portions.) Arrange the sliced tomatoes, cut side up, on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle the tomato halves evenly with the olive oil, sprinkle with the rosemary, and season with salt and pepper. Roast the tomatoes until the moisture is completely removed, 4 to 6 hours, depending on the size of your tomatoes. The tomatoes should be dry but still soft to the touch, and when you press a tomato with your finger, it will feel plump yet exude no liquid. (If using sliced tomatoes instead of halves, you may wish to start checking them at 2 hours.) Remove from the oven and let the tomatoes cool completely.

Make the tart dough: In a bowl, whisk together the flour and salt. Scatter the butter over the flour mixture and, using your fingers, gently press the butter and flour together until it resembles a coarse meal. Drizzle the ice water over the top and, using a fork, gently toss and stir just until the dough comes together in a cohesive clump.

Gather the dough into a ball and place it on a lightly floured work surface. Flatten the dough into a thick disk and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 2 days.

Assemble the tart: Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat it to 375°F (190°C).

In a sauté pan, heat the 2 tablespoons oil over low heat and stir in the onion. Cover and sweat over low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, until the onion is soft and translucent. Do not allow the onion to color. (Alternatively, if you prefer properly caramelized onions, you can uncover and cook the onions until golden brown and intensely flavorful.) Remove from the heat, season with salt and pepper, and let cool completely.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough to a round about 12 inches in diameter. Carefully transfer the round to the parchment.

Layer half of the cheese on the dough round, leaving a 1-inch border uncovered around the edge. In a small bowl, combine the cooled onion, the basil, and the crème fraîche and mix well. Spread the onion mixture evenly over the cheese layer. Top with the roasted tomatoes, then cover with the remaining cheese. Season with salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil. Fold the uncovered edge of the tart onto itself, forming uniformly spaced pleats every few inches around the perimeter. Brush the overturned edge of dough with the egg wash.

Bake the tart for 30 to 40 minutes, until the crust is a nice golden brown. Remove the tart from the oven, transfer it to a wire rack, and let it cool until it’s warm or at room temperature. Slice and serve.

guacamole disguised as a salad.

One of the reasons I love Instagram so much is that if you are food obsessed person (like myself), you can follow other like-minded people and become privy to a whole lot of recipe inspiration.  It's like an ever-updating magazine of what's in-season and what you should be making for dinner.   I find myself taking screenshots of people's feed multiple times a day - photo reminders of what I need to get to the kitchen and make. 

I came across a photo and a description of a salad very similar to this one last week on the feed of Ashley Rodriguez; the writer and photographer behind Not Without Salt.  The words "kind of like guacamole" got me because if there is anything I want to eat during an epic heat wave it's guacamole. But I'm an adult (I think that's what happens when you turn 30), and while a bowl of guac and an endless bag of tortilla chips sounds absurdly delightful, it doesn't really feel like a proper dinner.  But guacamole disguised as a salad?  That I can get behind.  

I threw this together based on her description and what I had on hand and the resulting salad is dreamy.  It really does taste exactly like most American's dip of choice but it's classy since it's a salad.  Served with Bourbon Sugar Steak and some homemade cornbread (recipe coming soon) and you have one perfect summer Sunday supper.

Guacamole Disguised as a Salad

Recipe based on a photo and description from Ashley Rodriguez at Not Without Salt

Serves 2

1 ripe avocado, sliced thin

1 1/2 cups mixed variety heirloom cherry tomatoes halved and/or quartered

2 tablespoons pepitas or sunflower seeds

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

Zest and juice of 1/2 a lime

Flaky sea salt and pepper to taste

Olive oil for drizzling

On a large plate or platter, scatter 1/3 of the cherry tomatoes.  Sprinkle lightly with flaky salt and pepper.  Arrange the sliced avocado over the tomatoes.   Scatter the additional tomatoes over the top. Sprinkle with additional flaky salt and pepper.  Scatter the pepitas/sunflower seeds, cilantro, and cumin over the tomatoes and avocados.  Drizzle the lime juice and a little olive oil over the top and then sprinkle with the lime zest.  Eat immediately.   

tomato cobbler.

Sometimes I stumble across a recipe that gets printed and added to my ever-growing pile of things I want to make at some point.  This pile is rather large and ominous looking.  It’s something I imagine will never end up fully tackling as the pile will always grow faster than I can cook but I will continue to chip away at it (and I will obviously continue to add to it). 

Other times, I come across a recipe that makes me want to stop everything and cook it right now.  These recipes never see the pile. 

This recipe is one of those. 

I stumbled across this cobbler recipe last Monday.  My initial fear was that cherry tomatoes had already left the farmers market and I wouldn't be able to make it and I would be forced to wait an entire year (these are my big fears). 

Lucky for me, cherry tomatoes were found. 

This recipe is September (or everything I want to eat in September).  Late season tomatoes get cooked down in a cast iron skillet and then dotted with goat cheese and herbs.  Tender and flaky biscuits are baked a top the whole thing resulting in the most insanely delicious thing I’ve had in a long time.  It’s warm and exudes all the qualities one looks for in comfort food but it also manages to be bright and fresh (something most comfort food is not).  The boy and I scarfed it down last night and then returned for seconds.  This will be on heavy rotation until tomatoes disappear.  

Tomato Cobbler
Recipe adapted from Leite's Culinaria

There is probably a Southern woman rolling over in her grave because I am saying this, but I hate rolling out biscuits.  I much prefer the biscuit plop.  I like to think misshapen biscuits have more character.  

For the biscuit topping

¾ cup plus 3 tablespoons (120 grams) whole-wheat flour (can use all-purpose)

3 ½ tablespoons cornmeal

2 ¼ teaspoons baking powder

1 tablespoons granulated sugar

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 cup cold unsalted butter, cubed

4 tablespoons cold buttermilk (only 3 ½ tablespoons if you use all-purpose)

For the tomato filling

2 – 2 ½ pounds red and yellow cherry tomatoes

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Leaves from 8 to 10 thyme sprigs or 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, minced

1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper (optional)

Healthy pinch freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

1 large egg, beaten with 1 tablespoon water (optional)

6 ounces (170 grams) soft goat cheese, crumbled

Make the biscuit topping: Whisk together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, sugar, and salt in a large bowl. Dump in the butter cubes. Using a pastry blender, work the butter until you have pea- to lima bean-size pieces. (If you have particularly cold hands, you can use your fingertips.) Drizzle in the buttermilk and toss the mixture with a fork until it’s evenly moistened and begins to come together into a ball. 

Line a baking sheet with parchment.  Break off golf-ball sized balls of dough, flatten them ever so slightly, and place them on the baking sheet.  Repeat with the remaining dough.  You should have about 12-15 1 – 1 ½ inch biscuits at the end.  Place the biscuits in the freezer for 1 to 2 hours (or in the fridge for 6 hours if your freezer is as filled as mine. (You can also stash the biscuits in a resealable plastic bag and freeze them for up to 3 months to simplify throwing the cobbler together at the last minute easy. You’ll want to allow them a little extra time to thaw a little after taking them out of the freezer and before baking them.)

Make the tomato filling: Crank your oven to 350°F (180°C).

Toss the cherry tomatoes, olive oil, half the thyme/rosemary, salt, crushed red pepper (if using) and pepper in an ovenproof skillet. (I used a 12-inch cast-iron skillet and it worked marvelously.) Cover the skillet and cook on the stovetop over medium-high heat until the tomatoes begin to soften, 2 to 3 minutes. Uncover the skillet and continue cooking until all the tomatoes have burst slightly and released their juices.  Top with half the goat cheese. 

Remove the biscuits from the freezer/fridge and generously brush the tops with the egg wash (if using). Place them on top of the tomato mixture in the skillet, spacing them 1 – 1 ½ inch (2 1/2 centimeters) apart.

Bake the cobbler for 25 minutes. Remove the skillet from the oven and dot the remaining goat cheese between the biscuits, covering any exposed tomato mixture. Return the whole shebang to the oven, bump up the heat to 450°F (232°C) and continue baking until the top is nicely browned, about 10 minutes more. Scatter the remaining thyme over the top and serve the cobbler warm or at room temperature, scooping the cobbler straight from the skillet at the table. If you’re like me, you’ll want to gild each serving with an extra crank or so freshly ground black pepper. The cobbler is best eaten the day it’s made. (Like it could ever make it to another day.)

caponata.

We've reached this point where I've started to realize that in just a few short weeks the tomatoes, corn, and zucchini that are currently ABUNDANT at the farmer's market, will be gone.

I am going to be so sad when they are gone.  

The plus side is right now we are experiencing that kind of epic weather that only ever exists during the first couple of weeks of September.  I live for this time of year.  When summer produce is still bountiful and things like turning on an oven doesn't break me out in a sweat.  I love being able to coerce new flavors out of summer ingredients through cooking and roasting and baking.  It allows the foods of summer to take on a whole new level of flavor.  

This caponata is the epitome of everything I want to eat right now. It's chock-full of all sorts of summer deliciousness (tomatoes! eggplant! zucchini!! peppers!) but when cooked together it takes on a whole new dimension.  Caponata is kind of like an Italian sweet and sour stew.  It's traditionally eaten as an anti-pasta (and I've been known to eat entire bowls of it like that) but it also makes for a great side to sausages or served over a bed of pasta. However you choose to eat it, you will find yourself returning for seconds.  

Caponata Modo Mio

Recipe adapted From Urban Italian

Serves 6 - 8

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, diced large
1 red pepper, diced large
1 yellow pepper, diced large
2 Japanese eggplants or 1 Italian eggplant, diced large
2 small or 1 large zucchini, diced large
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 cloves of garlic, sliced thin
½ cup raisins re-hydrated in 1 cup water

1 cup basic tomato sauce 

2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves 
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1/2 cup pine nuts, toasted and roughly chopped

Basil for sprinkling

Heat olive oil in a large saucepan over high heat. Add the onion, peppers, and eggplant. When the vegetables have softened a bit (about 5 minutes), add the zucchini. Season  with half the salt and pepper. Mix the ingredients together and continue to cook.

After ten 10 minutes, add the red pepper flakes and garlic. Cover and reduce the heat to medium, and let the steam roast the vegetables for 5 minutes.

Remove the raisins from the water and add to the pot with the tomato sauce.  Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes, until vegetables are soft but not falling apart and the sauce is well incorporated.

Remove the saucepan from the heat, Add the fresh oregano and season with remaining salt and pepper. Mix in vinegar. Serve in a large bowl with pine nuts sprinkled on top.

fresh tomato sauce (take 2)

Last week I purchased a box of tomatoes weighing close to 30 pounds.

Why you may ask, would a girl who lives with only one other boy decide to purchase 30 pounds of roma tomatoes?  I'll tell you why, it's because the box cost $15.  FIFTEEN DOLLARS.  At a price like that, they are practically giving away the tomatoes and if my father taught me anything it's that you never ignore a good deal (especially when it's a good food deal).  

On the long walk back to my apartment (and on this walk I managed to spill the box of tomatoes but we don't really have to talk about that), my arms began to quiver and reality began to set in.  What does one actually do with 30 pounds of tomatoes?

The answer lies in tomato sauce. So much tomato sauce.  Enough tomato sauce to last us though the winter.

I made tomato sauce this time last year and it was good (and far easier then this version) but it lacked the perfect stick to the pasta consistency.  So this year I set out to tackle tomato sauce again and what I discovered was the perfect sauce does exist it just takes a lot of work.

I don't need to tell you that making your own tomato paste is annoyingly time consuming.  I don't need to tell you that peeling and seeding 25 pounds of tomatoes will make you want to scream.  I don't need to tell you that deciding to make tomato sauce on the hottest and most humid day of the summer is a bad idea. But I do need to tell you that this sauce is dreamy.  The work is totally worth it.

Fresh Tomato Sauce (Take 2)
Recipe adapted from Serious Eats

10 pounds ripe plum tomatoes, preferably mixed varieties (such as Romas, Amish Pastes, and San Marzanos), plus 15 pounds ripe mixed tomatoes, mostly plums with a small portion of other tomatoes (such as beefsteaks)

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing

3 medium cloves garlic, minced (see note above)

2 large sprigs fresh basil

Kosher salt

Peel the tomatoes: Bring a large Dutch oven or stock pot of water to a boil over high heat. Fill a mixing bowl with ice and water and set this next to the stove. Core out the stems from the tomatoes and slice a shallow "X" in the bottom of each fruit. Working in batches, drop several tomatoes into the boiling water. Cook until you see the skin starting to wrinkle and split, 45 to 60 seconds, then lift the tomatoes out with the slotted spoon and plunge them into the ice water. Continue with the rest of the tomatoes, transferring the cooled tomatoes from the ice water to another mixing bowl as they cool. When finished, use your hands or a paring knife to strip the skins from the tomatoes. Discard the water used to boil the tomatoes.  Halve tomatoes, remove their seeds, and cut into chunks. 

In a large stockpot, heat the 10 pounds of the peeled plum tomatoes, covered, over high heat, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes dump their liquid. Bring to a boil, covered and stirring occasionally, and then cook until tomatoes are softened, about 10 minutes.

Preheat oven to 275°F and grease several rimmed baking sheets and baking dishes with oil.

Pour plum tomato mixture into a food processor or Vitamix and blend until smooth. Pour plum-tomato purée into rimmed baking sheets and/or baking dishes, being careful not to overfill them.

Carefully transfer baking sheets and dishes to oven and bake, checking every 15 minutes and stirring once purée begins to thicken, until a thick, spreadable tomato paste forms, at least 2 hours.

Meanwhile, fill the same large stockpot with remaining 15 pounds of peeled mixed tomatoes and cook, covered, over high heat, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes dump their liquid. Bring to a boil, covered and stirring occasionally, and then cook until tomatoes are softened, about 15 minutes. (Work in batches if your pot can't hold all 15 pounds at once.)

Using a food processor or Vitamix, puree the tomato mixture to desired consistency.  Set aside.

Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large, wide saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and sweet, about 4 minutes. Add mixed-tomato purée and simmer, stirring occasionally, until reduced to a sauce-like consistency, 35-40 minutes.

Remove from heat, stir in basil. Stir in oven-dried tomato paste and season with salt. Use as desired or freeze.

tomatoes with crisp fried eggplant and burrata.

Let's get this out of the way, ok? Panko crusted pan-fried eggplant is awesome.  

Good, now that we've established that, let's talk about this dish which I keep referring to as a deconstructed eggplant parmeasn and if we're being honest, I think it's better then eggplant parmesan.  

I've been on a hunt as of late for eggplant recipes because I tend to rely on my defaults i.e. smoky eggplant dip and this pizza (which is awesome I might add). I had lofty summer plans involving perfecting my eggplant caponata game and also re-imagining the eggplant pizza but as usual I got sidetracked (I am the worst).  This dish, which I discovered when browsing online for food-spiration (more specifically eggplant inspiration) ticked off all the boxes that I require to be ticked off this time of year - does not involve the oven!, involves tomatoes and burrata!, can be prepared in under 30 minutes!.  

My problem with eggplant parm has always been that it's a heavy wintery dish which is why this version is so incredible.  You get the flavors of eggplant parm but without the heaviness.  It's light and fresh!  The true star of the dish is the panko crusted eggplant which is seriously amazing.  Crispy and crunchy (eggplant parm lacks the crunch which is where this dish shines) and positively perfect with chopped tomatoes and creamy burrata.  This is the kind of thing you should be eating this week as the perfect summer send-off (though I will be eating it well into the beginning of fall).  

Tomatoes with Crisp Fried Eggplant and Burrata 

Recipe adapted (barely) from Lootie and Doof

Serves 2

All-purpose flour, for dredging

1 large egg, well beaten

1 cup Panko breadcrumbs

2 Japanese eggplants (½ to ¾ pounds total), cut on the bias into ½ -inch-thick slices

8 ounces cherry tomatoes, preferably in a mix of colors (you can sub larger tomatoes that you cut into wedges)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup fresh basil leaves, half of them torn

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

Vegetable oil, for frying

1 ball or about 6 ounces burrata cheese (you can use fresh mozzarella, but it won’t be as creamy and delicious)

Place flour, eggs, and breadcrumbs in 3 separate wide, shallow bowls. Working with 1 eggplant slice at a time, dredge in flour, then dip in egg and then breadcrumbs. Transfer to a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, halve tomatoes and toss with olive oil and torn basil. Season with salt and pepper.

Heat about 1/4 inch vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add enough eggplant slices to fill but not crowd skillet and fry, flipping once, until deep golden brown and crunchy, 1 to 2 minutes on each side. (Lower heat slightly, if necessary.) Remove with a slotted spoon, drain on a clean wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet, and season with salt. Discard used oil and repeat process with fresh oil and remaining eggplant.

Arrange eggplant and tomato mixture on a platter. Cut burrata in half, place next to tomatoes, and season with salt and pepper. Scatter remaining basil on top.

heirloom tomato jam.

Last week when apricot jam was discussed, my mindset was I was done with jam for the season (4 jams in 4 months seemed like more than enough).  

I was wrong to think such a thing. Oh so wrong.  

In the span of 3 days I somehow ended up with over 6 pounds of tomatoes.  Considering tomatoes have such a short shelf life and there are only 2 of us I knew I needed to find a tomato option that would use up about half of these guys and quickly.  

This is how I fell down the hole of tomato jam land.  

Tomato jam is really a fancy name for a thick rustic ketchup-like condiment.  Some recipes take the jam concept very seriously by adding something in the realm of 2 CUPS OF SUGAR to 3 POUNDS OF TOMATOES which is insane to me (though I will admit the sugar is somewhat necessary if you want to preserve the jam).  I was aching for a savory jam.  The kind of thing that begs to be served on a toasted baguette with a poached egg and avocado.  The kind of thing you can spread on grilled cheese or a BLT or even on a veggie burger.  I wanted the juxtaposition of savory and sweet with a kick of heat and a tang of acidity.  

Somehow I ended up making exactly what I was craving (don't you love when that happens?).  This jam has been consumed by the spoonful.  It's been slathered on bread and eaten with hardboiled egg.  Its been served on toast with a dollop of ricotta.  It's the perfect thing for this weird in-between season time of year and it somehow works with just about anything and everything.  

Heirloom Tomato Jam

Recipe adapted from A Cozy Kitchen

3 pounds red heirloom tomatoes
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
Pinch of salt
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Hull and cut the tomatoes into a rough dice. If you’re using heirloom tomatoes, be sure to cut off any tough, brown spots that might be on their skin. Transfer the chopped tomatoes to a non-reactive medium pot, along with the brown sugar, salt and red wine vinegar. Place the uncovered pot over medium heat and bring the mixture to a simmer; cook for 30 minutes. At the 30 minute-mark add the dried thyme and mix. Cook for an additional 25 to 30 more minutes and until the mixture is thick. If you’re using more or less tomatoes, the cook time will definitely vary.

Allow to cool to room temperature. Transfer to a jar and store in the refrigerator. Tomato jam will be good for two weeks without canning.

tomato galette with goat cheese and rosemary.

Somehow summer has escaped me and I can't entirely figure out how it happened.  

With 2 weeks to go until Labor Day, the boy and I decided, despite the cooler summer temperatures, that it was time to make a trip to the beach (because what's summer without at least one trip to the beach). Sandwiches were made, freshly baked cookies were packed, orange Gatorade was purchased (it's my favorite, don't judge).  We lay in the sand with books (and Kindle's) in our hands. The new fall fashion magazines were devoured and check lists were made of fall must haves (a light grey crewneck sweater and pinstripe work pants please).  The day ended with a walk down the Asbury Park boardwalk and the consumption of one too many Korean fusion tacos.  It was kind of perfect.  

I figured if I was going to embrace summer, I might as well keep it a consistent weekend theme which is how I found myself turning the most glorious heirloom cherry tomatoes into a galette.  A whole wheat crust was made.  Tomatoes both halved and quartered were tossed with olive oil, rosemary, and crumbled goat cheese and then piled into the center of the whole wheat crust.  As the galette baked, the tomatoes began to char and breakdown, their juices mingling with the rosemary and goat cheese.  And then we ate it, by the last rays of Sunday night light.  

Tomato Galette with Goat Cheese and Rosemary

1 batch of dough (recipe below)
550 grams of assorted cherry tomatoes (the more assorted the better) or about 4 cups halved and quartered
2 ounces of crumbled goat cheese
1 tablespoon olive oil
salt and pepper to taste
2 tablespoons rosemary

Preheat the oven to 400°. 

Line a large rimless baking sheet with parchment paper.

In a bowl combine the tomatoes, goat cheese, olive oil, salt, pepper, and rosemary.  Toss to combine and set aside.

On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough to a 14-inch round. Transfer it to the baking sheet.

Spread the tomatoes on top of the dough leaving a 2 inch border all around.  Fold up the edges of the dough over the filling.  

Bake in the middle of the oven for about 35 minutes or until the tomatoes are burst and the pastry and browned and cooked through.  Let cool before serving.

Galette Dough
Recipe adapted from Food and Wine

2/3 cup all-purpose flour

1/3 cup whole wheat flour

1/2 teaspoon sugar

Pinch of salt

6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

3-4 tablespoons ice water

In a bowl, mix the flour with the sugar and salt. Using a pastry blender or your fingers, cut in half of the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Cut in the remaining butter until the largest pieces are the size of lima beans. Drizzle the water over the dough and stir until moistened. (Start with 3 tablespoons and add more if needed.)  Gather up the dough and knead it 2 or 3 times. Flatten the dough into a disk, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.