jam bars.

This past weekend, I spent so much time eating outdoors.  A slice of pizza standing on a NYC street corner.  Salads and asparagus flatbread by the pool.  Focaccia sandwiches of roasted zucchini, kale pesto, and mozzarella in a hidden corner of Liberty State Park.   It was the kind of weather that beacons you outside.    Slight breeze, warm sun, freckled shoulders, bare feet.   

Come summer, I like making food that can travel well.  The kind of cooking that allows for spontaneity and spur of the moment park meet ups or alfresco dinners with friends.  As a natural introvert, I’m trying to set myself up to be more comfortable with asking people to do something on a really nice Sunday afternoon.   If the food can be flexible and adaptable, I like to think it’s possible I can be as well.  

To prepare for all of these impromptu picnics, I plan on having a batch of these bars in the freezer at all times between now and Labor Day weekend.  They are a dream – crispy and kind of cookie-like, filling but not heavy.  The right amount of sweet.  I filled them with a homemade cherry rhubarb jam (I cleaned out the freezer!) but I think they would be amazing with a strawberry jam or apricot jam come late summer.   

Jam Bars 
From Tartine All Day by Elisabeth Prueitt

1/2 cup/110g unsalted butter or coconut oil (vegan!), at room temperature
1/3 cup/85g smooth almond butter
2 Tbsp brown rice syrup or maple syrup
1 1/2 cups/150g rolled oats
1 cup/120g almond flour
1 cup/120g oat flour
6 Tbsp/90g granulated sugar
1 tsp baking powder
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt (Diamond)
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1/2 tsp almond extract
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1 cup plus 2 Tbsp/340g jam 
1 tsp lemon juice
Pinch of sea salt
Sliced almonds (optional)

Preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C. Line a 9 by 13-inch/23 by 33cm baking pan with parchment paper. Combine the butter or coconut oil, almond butter, and brown rice syrup or maple syrup in a large bowl and, using a wooden spoon, mix well.

Add the rolled oats, almond flour, oat flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, vanilla and almond extracts, and cinnamon to the butter mixture and stir until a soft dough forms. Divide the dough into thirds. Press two-thirds of the dough into the bottom of the prepared pan and reserve the remaining one-third for the topping.

Stir together the jam, lemon juice, and salt and then spread the mixture evenly over the bottom crust.

Crumble the remaining one-third dough over the jam filling. If desired, scatter slice almonds on-top.   

Bake the jam bars until golden brown around the edges, about 35 minutes (push it a little bit, you don’t want them pale). Let the pastry cool completely in the pan on a wire rack before cutting into bars.

The jam bars will keep, well wrapped, at room temperature for up to 4 days (or in the fridge, which is kind of nice too).  Wrapped well, they will last for weeks in the freezer.  

heirloom tomato jam.

Last week when apricot jam was discussed, my mindset was I was done with jam for the season (4 jams in 4 months seemed like more than enough).  

I was wrong to think such a thing. Oh so wrong.  

In the span of 3 days I somehow ended up with over 6 pounds of tomatoes.  Considering tomatoes have such a short shelf life and there are only 2 of us I knew I needed to find a tomato option that would use up about half of these guys and quickly.  

This is how I fell down the hole of tomato jam land.  

Tomato jam is really a fancy name for a thick rustic ketchup-like condiment.  Some recipes take the jam concept very seriously by adding something in the realm of 2 CUPS OF SUGAR to 3 POUNDS OF TOMATOES which is insane to me (though I will admit the sugar is somewhat necessary if you want to preserve the jam).  I was aching for a savory jam.  The kind of thing that begs to be served on a toasted baguette with a poached egg and avocado.  The kind of thing you can spread on grilled cheese or a BLT or even on a veggie burger.  I wanted the juxtaposition of savory and sweet with a kick of heat and a tang of acidity.  

Somehow I ended up making exactly what I was craving (don't you love when that happens?).  This jam has been consumed by the spoonful.  It's been slathered on bread and eaten with hardboiled egg.  Its been served on toast with a dollop of ricotta.  It's the perfect thing for this weird in-between season time of year and it somehow works with just about anything and everything.  

Heirloom Tomato Jam

Recipe adapted from A Cozy Kitchen

3 pounds red heirloom tomatoes
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
Pinch of salt
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Hull and cut the tomatoes into a rough dice. If you’re using heirloom tomatoes, be sure to cut off any tough, brown spots that might be on their skin. Transfer the chopped tomatoes to a non-reactive medium pot, along with the brown sugar, salt and red wine vinegar. Place the uncovered pot over medium heat and bring the mixture to a simmer; cook for 30 minutes. At the 30 minute-mark add the dried thyme and mix. Cook for an additional 25 to 30 more minutes and until the mixture is thick. If you’re using more or less tomatoes, the cook time will definitely vary.

Allow to cool to room temperature. Transfer to a jar and store in the refrigerator. Tomato jam will be good for two weeks without canning.

roasted jalapeno peach jam.

As of late, jam has been on my mind.  It started when I realized I had already blown through my stash of strawberry jam in less than 2 months.  (Peanut butter and jelly is a staple of my diet and I have no shame in admitting I am partial to lunches usually favored by those under the age of 10.)  I mourned this loss and then I realized its summer and fresh fruit is everywhere and just because strawberry season is over doesn’t mean I can’t have cherry jam or apricot jam or some other delightful flavor.  

But then on Friday while the boy and I dined at one of those cozy wine bars where you need a flashlight to read the menu (candles while romantic and pretty are not always conducive to studying menus), I had a light bulb moment about jam.   We ordered a cheese and charcuterie plate that came with a sweet and spicy apricot mustard spread that made me realize I had been thinking about jam all wrong.  Jam doesn’t need to be a singular flavor to be used solely as a topping for toast or as a filling for cookies, it can be multi-dimensional and composed of unusual flavors.  With that thought roasted jalapeno peach jam was born. 

This jam begs for grilled cheese, a charcuterie board, or a roast chicken sandwich.  It’s bold and assertive but not overpowering.  The jalapeno heat is subtle but present.  The peach is sweet yet not cloying.  It’s balanced and perfect and I love it on toast with a side of scrambled eggs since a little heat at breakfast is always a good thing. 

Roasted Jalapeno Peach Jam

Makes about 2 cups

About 2 pounds of peaches, peeled and diced (awesome tutorial here about how to peel peaches)

1 jalapeno

1 cup sugar

Juice of 1 lemon

Roast the jalapeno.  You can do this over an open flame, turning the jalapeno until it blackens on all sides or in the oven by roasting for 10 minutes at 500 degrees until the jalapeno is black (turn the jalapeno on occasion).  Place the blackened jalapeno in a plastic bag and let rest for about 15 minutes or until cool enough to handle. 

Scrape the skin off the jalapeno and then seed and mince it.  Place the jalapeno in a large bowl along with the diced peaches.  Pour the sugar and lemon juice over the peach/jalapeno mixture and stir to coat.  Cover the bowl and let sit for about 3 hours to allow the fruit to macerate.  (If you can’t get back to the jam in 3 hours, you can let it macerate overnight in the fridge). 

Pour the macerated peach mixture into a heavy bottomed pot.  Allow the mixture to cook over medium heat for about 10 -12 minutes or until the peaches begin to breakdown and the mixture thickens slightly.  Turn off the heat and allow the mixture to cool for 10 minutes. 

Transfer ¾ of the peach mixture to a blender or food processor (if you prefer a chunkier jam you can transfer only half if you prefer a smooth jam, transfer all of it) and puree until smooth.  Return the mixture to the pot and bring to a boil.  Reduce the heat to low and simmer gently for 10 – 12 minutes (stir on occasion to prevent scorching).  To test if the jam is ready, drop a heaping teaspoonful onto a plate and slightly tilt the plate. The jam should not run off, but cling and slowly glide down. If the jam isn’t ready, put it back on the heat for a while.

When cool, spoon the jam into a jar and refrigerate.  Use within 2 months of making. 

chocolate covered jam sandwich cookies.

Arthur Ave in the Bronx is one of my favorite streets in the world.  Going there is kind of like time traveling to a different era when bakeries and butchers where the norm on every street.  I love strolling down the block and loading up my bags with fresh pastas, blocks of parmesan, Italian sausages, and loaves of warm bread.  After spending the afternoon shopping my favorite thing to do is stop at the old school Italian bakery for a cannoli and a box of assorted Italian butter cookies.  Of all the Italian butter cookies the one I always look to eat first is the jam sandwich cookie dipped in chocolate.  It’s a wonderful cookie.

The jam sandwich cookie is my favorite because it encompasses lots of different flavors and textures.  The cookie is buttery and crumbly, the jam is sweet and tart, and the chocolate is rich giving the whole cookie an indulgent feel.  I recently came across a recipe for a homemade version of these cookies and jumped at the chance to make them (especially since we finally had a break from the summer heat!).  The cookies were a fancier and more delicious version of the original.  I used homemade jam since we have a plethora of it in the fridge (and used a variety of flavors since I love options!) and dipped the cookies in a rich dark chocolate ganache.  They made a wonderful afternoon snack with a cup of espresso - how Italian!

Chocolate Covered Jam Sandwich Cookies
Recipe from Desserts for Breakfast (Her blog has the most beautiful photos ever!)

Makes 20-24 cookies

1 teaspoon baking powder

¼ teaspoon salt

2 cups (280 grams) all purpose flour

12 + 1 tablespoon butter softened

¼ cup (50 grams) sugar

¼ cup (28 grams) powdered sugar

1 egg

Jam or marmalade (I used strawberry, rhubarb, and cherry!)

89 grams (3 oz) dark chocolate

89 grams (3 oz heavy cream)

Combine the baking powder, salt, and flour in a bowl.  Set aside.  In a mixer, cream 12 tablespoons of butter for 2-3 minutes until light and fluffy.  Gradually add the sugars and continue to beat for a few minutes more.  Add the egg and beat well.  Add the flour mixture in three stages, mixing just until combined.  Turn the dough out onto a work surface and form into a ball.  Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight. 

Preheat the over to 350 degrees.  Prepare baking sheets line with parchment paper or silpats.  Roll out the cold dough on a lightly floured surface to a ½ inch thickness.  Using a 1 ¾ to 2 inch cookie cutter, cut out small rounds.  Reroll the leftover dough and continue to cut out cookies.  Place cookies on a prepared baking sheet and refrigerate for at least 10n minutes if the dough is no longer cold.  Bake each sheet for 15 minutes, rotating once half-way through the baking time.  Cookies are done with the edges begin to turn golden.  Remove from oven and let cool completely on a wire rack. 

To assemble, spread a small amount of jam on a cookie and sandwich with another one.  Finely chop the dark chocolate and place in a bowl.  Combine the heave cream and remaining 1 tablespoon of butter in a small saucepan over medium heat.  Bring to a simmer, remove from heat, and pour on top of the chocolate.  Let sit for a minute, and then whisk until smooth.  Dip the cookies in the chocolate ganache, shaking gently to remove the excess, and let dry on a sheet of parchment paper or silpat for at least 2 hours or until the ganche as firmed up and is no longer liquid.