paris, france.

Two-ish weeks ago I came back from a quick Paris trip with my sister.   The first time I went to Paris I was 20, a junior in college, and about 3 weeks into dating Tyler.   It was a magical first experience and my most vivid memory from that trip involves drinking champagne (though in hindsight I don't think we actually splurged on anything remotely as nice as champagne) with a handful of my good friends underneath the blinking Eiffel Tower.  I was so young and carefree and wearing a coat much to thin for the January weather.  It was great. 

This trip was different but just as memorable.   Hayley and I rented an apartment in the Marais.  We criss-crossed all across Paris walking 10 plus miles a day.   I ate some really good croissants and basically explored the city in a way I've never done before.  Most of the trips I take are to places I've never been, but there is something nice about visiting a place you've been before.  You don't need to stop and see all the major sites because you've done that.  You can instead spend your days walking down little streets and getting lost.  Stopping in stores that interest you or restaurants that seem quaint.  It's very liberating.   

So here's a list of places I visited.  I didn't hit everything but I did hit a lot of places.  I did not eat badly on this trip.  

Mokonuts - I came here for a chocolate chip cookie that was unlike any chocolate chip cookie I've ever had.  It is very much the French version of an American classic and I literally can't stop dreaming about it.  I wish I had had time to eat a full meal here.  

Septime - The one must-go on my trip.   It was a truly magical meal (4 courses and 2 glasses of wine!)   I plan on re-creating the asparagus dish with pistachio pesto and yogurt.   

Au Passage - A menu that rotates on a daily basis.   Lots of vegetables.  Casual but very French and a staff that is extraordinary friendly and accommodating.


Du Pain et Des Idees -  I could write 1000 words just about the pistachio chocolate snail but I wont (I will say I brought two back in my suitcase).   Everything (and I mean everything) is good.   Get as many things as you can and eat them outside while drinking an Americano.


Jambon Beurre - I stumbled across this one while we were walking through the Louvre area.  A very good ham and butter baguette sandwich with cornishons!  (All ham sandwiches on a baguette should include cornishons.)   

La Bourse et La Vie - Neo-bistro French food.  (It doesn't get much better then this.)  I had an incredible fish and fennel dish and text-book perfect creme caramel.  Also the restaurant is gorgeous.   
Poliane - For the most incredible apple tart you will ever (and I mean ever) have. 

Jacques Genin - Passionfruit-Mango Caramels.  I could eat 100 of them.   Buy a bunch and bring them home (they keep well in the fridge).   

And for non-food things...

Museum of Hunting and Nature which is totally absurd and also amazing.  

Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen - You have to walk through a lot of crappy vendors but once you do, you are rewarded with all sorts of beautiful antiques that you wish you could shrink down and fit in your luggage.   

Any Churches - I love old European churches.   

coconut, almond, and blueberry cake.

The snow will just not stop.   I always imagined that I could live in a place (like Alaska or northern Maine) where winter truly existed for 6 months of the year but I've come to realize after I am not cut out for that life. It takes a truly special kind of person to live there.  Someone who is capable of not wanting to burn their snow jacket by the end of March.   

SO! If you're in need of a little bit of summer sunshine and looking for a remarkably easy cooking project on this snow day, this is the cake for you (especially if you are blessed with a freezer stash of last summer's blueberries).   This cake bakes up with a pudding-like consistency that makes me feel as if I am getting the best of two deserts in one.   The edges of the cake are firm but as you move towards the center it's soft and almost custardy with pockets of jammy blueberries throughout.   The coconut is not a typical addition but it really adds a nice textural punch and flavor to the cake.  I couldn't help but tweak and add some ground ginger because I love nothing more then the combination of lemon+ginger+almonds.   It's not necessary but it adds another flavor dimension that works.   

Here's to spring (hopefully) coming.   

Coconut, Almond, and Blueberry Cake

Recipe from Sweet: Desserts from London's Ottolenghi 

The original recipe called for 1 1/4 cups of sugar which seemed like more sugar then needed.  I dialed it back to about 3/4 cup + 2 tablespoons and think I could go to 3/4 cup next time.  I've listed a range below.

I also dialed back the butter to 3/4 of a cup (from 3/4 + 2 tbsp) because I hate having random amounts of butter left.  There didn't seem to be any ill-affects from doing this so feel free to do the same!

12/3 cup /180g ground almonds/ almond flour

2/3 cup / 60g desiccated coconut

3/4 -  1 cup /150 - 200 g granulated sugar  

½ cup plus 1 tbsp/70g all-purpose flour

¾ tsp baking powder

1/4 tsp salt

1/2 tsp ground ginger

4 large eggs

¾ cup/173 g unsalted butter melted and cooled

1½ tsp vanilla extract

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon 

1 1/2 cups/225 grams blueberries (fresh or frozen)

1/4 cup/ 20g flaked almonds

Grease and line a 23cm/9-inch spring form cake pan. Preheat the oven to 350F/180C.

In a mixing bowl add he almonds, coconut, sugar, flour, ginger, and salt and whisk to aerate and remove the lumps.

In another bowl add eggs and whisk lightly. Add the melted butter, vanilla extract and lemon zest and whisk again until well combined. Pour this into the dry mix and whisk to combine. Fold in 1 cup of the blueberries.

Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan and then top with rest of the batter.  Scatter the remaining blueberries on top.   

Sprinkle with the flaked almonds and bake for 45 minutes, or until a skewer inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean. Keep a close eye on it towards the end of cooking.

Set aside for 30 minutes before inverting out of the tin, removing the baking parchment and placing the cake the right way up on a serving plate. It can either be served warm with cream or set aside until cool.

This will keep for up to 3 days in an airtight container or wrapped in aluminum foil. It also freezes well for up to a month.