mushroom tartines.

Build me a window to watch everything
Leave it unshuttered so nothing slips by
No season, no sorrow, no wonderful thing
No raspberry, strawberry sun in the sky
I will bring music and marsipan bars
And live deep inside you
Wherever you are

-Joni Mitchell, Gemini Twin 

I haven't had much of a desire to cook new things over the last couple of weeks (partially due to the fact that I just want some asparagus and rhubarb as I am so sick of kale and sweet potatoes). But, I did convince myself a couple of weeks back to make these mushroom tartines after seeing them on the Smitten Kitchen blog (I needed something to tide me over until more green things arrived at the market).

You need to make these.   They make for a great light dinner when paired with a nice green salad. They also taste shockingly good the next day (I'm as surprised as you are).   I also think that you could make them a "madame" by throwing an egg on top.  Not necessary but also not a bad idea.      

Mushroom Tartines
Recipe from Smitten Kitchen 

For the Sauce

2 tablespoons (30 grams) unsalted butter
2 tablespoons (15 grams) all-purpose flour
3/4 cup (175 ml) milk, ideally whole but lowfat should work
A few gratings fresh nutmeg
Salt and black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon (15 grams) smooth Dijon mustard

For the Mushrooms

1 1/2 pounds (680 grams) fresh mushrooms (cremini, white or a mix of wild all work), thinly sliced
Olive oil and butter as needed
2 teaspoons minced mixed fresh herbs such as rosemary, thyme and sage
Salt and black pepper to taste
1/4 of dry white wine (optional)

For the Assembly

1 pound loaf of a hearty white or whole wheat sourdough bread, in 3/4-inch slices
8 ounces (225 grams) coarsely grated gruyere or comte
Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, to garnish

Make the sauce: In a large skillet (so you can use it again for the mushrooms), melt butter over medium heat and then stir in flour until a paste forms. Very slowly drizzle in milk, whisking the whole time to keep the mixture smooth. Add nutmeg, salt and pepper and cook, stirring, until mixture has simmered for a couple minutes. It will be thick and get thicker as it cools; this makes for a better spread. Scrape into a bowl and stir in Dijon. Adjust seasonings if needed. Set aside.

Heat oven: To 425 degrees F. Line your largest baking sheet with foil. 

Cook the mushrooms: Wipe out skillet and heat over medium-high. Add a glug of olive oil or a mix of olive oil and butter. Once it is very hot, add 1/3 to 1/2 of mushrooms, 1/3 to 1/2 of herbs and let sear in pan until brown underneath, about 2 to 3 minutes, before stirring and continuing to cook until tender and any liquid in the pan has cooked off, about 5 minutes. Season well with salt and pepper. Repeat with remaining mushrooms.  If you have some brown bits on the bottom of your pan, deglaze with the wine and cook until all absorbed.   

Assemble and bake: Spread bread in one layer on prepared baking sheet. Schmear each all the way to the edges with sauce; you should have exactly enough for a thin coat on each. Heap each slice with mushrooms; use them all. Sprinkle cheese over and since the mushrooms are heaped so high, you’ll probably have to press it in a bit with your hand. You’ll be glad you got all the cheese on there.

Bake for 10 minutes, until cheese is melted all over, then transfer to the broiler and cook until tops are browned, a few minutes more (but keep an eye on it because broilers vary wildly and mine is rather weak).

To serve: Scatter with parsley and eat with a knife and fork, preferably with a big green salad on the side. (And more wine.)  Serves 4

soft polenta with mushrooms and arugula.

Despite this being the winter of the polar vortex and 40 inches of snow there wasn't a whole lot of stick-to-your-ribs comfort food cooking happening in my kitchen this year.  There were soups.  Lots of soups.  Lots of squash based soups (I sense a theme).  But I found myself shying away this season from the stews and baked pasta dishes I would normally embrace.  I'm currently scratching my head as to why this was the case (especially since cheesy baked pastas are the love of my life), so let's try and rectify this situation shall we?  

Polenta with mushrooms is the definition of stick-to-your-ribs winter eating but it doesn't require the level of time and effort most winter dishes seem to call for.  I find the transformation of cornmeal into polenta a rather magical process.  Taking the simplest of ingredients (water, cornmeal, salt) and turning into a luxurious meal is incredibly satisfying and it makes you feel so fancy and adult-like (even if you are eating dinner on your living room floor). Here soft polenta creates the perfect bed for a tangled mess of meaty mushrooms and spicy arugula garnished with just enough parmesan that you feel indulgent.  

Soft Polenta with Mushrooms and Arugula

Serves 2

This is winter eating at is finest.  It somehow manages to be both hearty and comforting without being overly heavy.  No cream, minimal cheese, it's "light" winter eating though I could think of a million ways to up the indulgence factor but really that's not necessary (sometimes restraint is a good thing).  

Soft Polenta
Recipe from Lidia's Family Table by Lidia Bastianich

2 1/2 cups water
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon salt 
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 
1/2 cup coarse yellow cornmeal (polenta)
1/4 - 1/3 cup Pecorino or Parmesan cheese 

In a heavy bottom medium-sized pot add the water, salt, oil, and bay leaf.  Whisking vigorously with one hand, pour the polenta into the water in a thin steady stream (a spouted measuring cup is helpful here). Keep whisking until all the cornmeal is incorporated and the mixture is smooth. Turn on medium-low heat and gradually bring the polenta to a boil. This will take about 8 minutes. You can leave the pot for a couple of minutes but stir frequently and thoroughly, especially the bottom, sides, and corners. As soon as you feel thickening, use a sturdy wooden spoon in place of the whisk, so you can scrap the polenta from the corners and mix it in. 

The polenta will become very thick as it gets close to the boil, then big bubbles will rise and burst in (and out of) the pot. At this point, lower the heat to get a continuous but slow perking - just a couple of bubbles at a time. Set a cover on top ajar so polenta doesn't pop all over the stove.

Cook the polenta at this rate for another 20 - 25 minutes, frequently stirring, and adjusting heat as necessary. Stir more continuously near the end, scraping up the thickest polenta from the bottom and corners. 

When the polenta is glossy and just pulling away from the sides it is done and you may turn off the heat.  Stir in the Parmesan.  Divide the polenta between the two plates.  Top with half the mushroom mixture (recipe below).

Mushrooms With Arugula

1/2 pound of mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
1 tablespoon butter
1 teaspoon tomato paste
1 teaspoon sherry vinegar (optional)
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup arugula
Additional Parmesan/Pecorino for garnish

In a large skillet, heat the butter over medium-high heat.  Add the the mushrooms to the pan and stir to coat in the butter.  As they cook, the mushrooms will begin to brown and then they will release their own juices, about 3-5 minutes.  Add the tomato paste and sherry vinegar (if using).  Stir to combine. Continue to cook for another minute or two.  Add in the arugula and salt and pepper to taste.  Remove from heat.