paris, france.

Two-ish weeks ago I came back from a quick Paris trip with my sister.   The first time I went to Paris I was 20, a junior in college, and about 3 weeks into dating Tyler.   It was a magical first experience and my most vivid memory from that trip involves drinking champagne (though in hindsight I don't think we actually splurged on anything remotely as nice as champagne) with a handful of my good friends underneath the blinking Eiffel Tower.  I was so young and carefree and wearing a coat much to thin for the January weather.  It was great. 

This trip was different but just as memorable.   Hayley and I rented an apartment in the Marais.  We criss-crossed all across Paris walking 10 plus miles a day.   I ate some really good croissants and basically explored the city in a way I've never done before.  Most of the trips I take are to places I've never been, but there is something nice about visiting a place you've been before.  You don't need to stop and see all the major sites because you've done that.  You can instead spend your days walking down little streets and getting lost.  Stopping in stores that interest you or restaurants that seem quaint.  It's very liberating.   

So here's a list of places I visited.  I didn't hit everything but I did hit a lot of places.  I did not eat badly on this trip.  

Mokonuts - I came here for a chocolate chip cookie that was unlike any chocolate chip cookie I've ever had.  It is very much the French version of an American classic and I literally can't stop dreaming about it.  I wish I had had time to eat a full meal here.  

Septime - The one must-go on my trip.   It was a truly magical meal (4 courses and 2 glasses of wine!)   I plan on re-creating the asparagus dish with pistachio pesto and yogurt.   

Au Passage - A menu that rotates on a daily basis.   Lots of vegetables.  Casual but very French and a staff that is extraordinary friendly and accommodating.


Du Pain et Des Idees -  I could write 1000 words just about the pistachio chocolate snail but I wont (I will say I brought two back in my suitcase).   Everything (and I mean everything) is good.   Get as many things as you can and eat them outside while drinking an Americano.


Jambon Beurre - I stumbled across this one while we were walking through the Louvre area.  A very good ham and butter baguette sandwich with cornishons!  (All ham sandwiches on a baguette should include cornishons.)   

La Bourse et La Vie - Neo-bistro French food.  (It doesn't get much better then this.)  I had an incredible fish and fennel dish and text-book perfect creme caramel.  Also the restaurant is gorgeous.   
Poliane - For the most incredible apple tart you will ever (and I mean ever) have. 

Jacques Genin - Passionfruit-Mango Caramels.  I could eat 100 of them.   Buy a bunch and bring them home (they keep well in the fridge).   

And for non-food things...

Museum of Hunting and Nature which is totally absurd and also amazing.  

Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen - You have to walk through a lot of crappy vendors but once you do, you are rewarded with all sorts of beautiful antiques that you wish you could shrink down and fit in your luggage.   

Any Churches - I love old European churches.   

detroit, mi. thoughts + a food guide.

When Tyler and I told people we were visiting Detroit, 90% of the people had a look of horror on their faces and asked why, 5% were indifferent, and 5% thought it sounded awesome (that 5% was mostly made-up of my parents and siblings). 

To say I began to question my choice would be a bit of an understatement. 

But Detroit is an incredible city.  Yes there are pockets of poverty and so many abandoned and dilapidated homes (that Tyler and I talked endlessly about rehabbing) but it is place filled with generosity, resiliency, and some of the friendliest people I've ever met. It's a place that feels mis-understood but also on the cusp of its 2nd golden age.  It's a place I could see us living in.   

Detroit has a lot to offer.  Some incredible museums (we only visited one since the weather was so good while we were there), a plethora of breweries, and some of the best food made by people who are truly embracing that whole locavore/seasonal/small-plate thing I love.   Below, find a handful of places we tried and loved.  This was only the tip of the iceberg, but I know we'll be back so I don't feel too bad about it.   

Food 

Gold Cash Gold - The first restaurant I had on my list and the only reservation I made.   It's located in an old pawn shop.   Hyper-seasonal with  a really interesting menu the veers in all different directions (some Southern, some Mexican).  We swooned over the cocktails, marrow dumplings, tomatillo salad, and vegan ice-cream sandwich.   

Gather - Our last dinner.  It just opened (like 2 weeks before we arrived) but it had been getting such good press that I felt we had to go.   Small-plate/shareable style (though if you are used to NY small plates then these plates would not be considered small).  Focus on grilled foods (fish, chicken, and bread).  We loved the homemade bread, crunchy salad, and a most excellent strawberry ice cream sandwich.   

Detroit Institute of Bagels - Probably the friendliest bagel shop I've ever been to.  Great bagel sandwiches best eaten in between river swimming.   

Sister Pie - My favorite stop in Detroit.   So many pies (we had Strawberry Pistachio and Marshmallow Butterscotch) and incredibly good cookies (the peanut butter paprika is awesome).   I really hope they make a cookbook.   I would fly back out there solely for more pie

Rose's Fine Foods - I've always wanted to own a diner and if I ever do such a thing, it will be modeled after this place.   Quirky with an emphasis on homemade (they make their bread).  It's diner perfection.   We had an order of pancakes with yogurt and caramelized bananas that may be my new favorite breakfast dish.    

The Farmer's Hand - A corner store/specialty grocer that only sells items made in Detroit.   We stopped her for local kombucha and cookies.   A great place to pick-up something fun to bring home.  

Bon Bon Bon   - A chocolate shop that is anything but traditional.  The flavors are out of control and their packaging is awesome.   

To-Do

Detroit Museum of Art -  A very impressive art museum that has Egyptian galleries, European art and an awesome contemporary wing.  It's a nice way to spend a couple of hours indoors.

Belle Isle - Probably my favorite stop in all of Detroit.   This is an island situated between Detroit and Canada.   There are a whole bunch of different attractions on the island (golfing, aquarium, etc) but we brought a picnic, a couple of towels, some books and magazines, and spent the day swimming in the Detroit river.  There's a great mix of hipsters and families and and sandy shore to lay out on.  Our day spent there was my kind of perfect day. 

Eastern Market - Due to plane delays we missed going here but if you are a food lover it's a market you don't want to miss.   There are vendors, produce stalls, and other booths selling locally made items.   It's also one of the oldest running markets in the US!   

Libations

Jolly Pumpkin Brewery - Great collection of sour beers (something Tyler and I are very into at this moment).   They also sell pizza's to help you sop up some of that beer (and the pizza comes highly rated).  

Detroit Brewing Company - Across the street from Jolly Pumpkin.  They have a great outdoor seating area and nice rotating list of beers so you can always find something seasonal on tap.

Batch Brewing Company - My ideal brewery.   Great bar food (we had a really excellent cubano and homemade pretzels), family friendly (should you be traveling with kids, they have games), and some excellent beers.  They also make a beer slushie for the summer and let me tell you, it's awesome.   

Places I didn't hit but wish I had time for - Mabel Grey, Mudgie's Deli.  The MoTown Museum.

austin, tx - a food and antique guide.

Tyler and I left our puppy and headed to Austin a couple of weekends ago.  Sadly, due to the awful thunderstorms they had, we didn't get to experience Austin the way the locals do i.e. outdoors drinking really good local beer and eating breakfast tacos in the sun.  Regardless, we made the most of it.

Austin isn't like the rest of Texas, it's a lot more urban, liberal, and filled with young kids who spend their money on fancy coffee, farmhouse ales, and superb tacos.   It feels a lot like Nashville and Portland (Oregon that is) and it's another one of those cities where I wonder what everyone actually does for a living.  No one seems to get dressed up and go to a corporate job.  Do corporate jobs exist outside of New York?

Despite my misgivings about careers in Austin, it's a fun place to visit.   The food is great and the antiquing is even better (if only we had an apartment we owned to put all of these things in!).  Below is my list of must check out places - mostly food and some shopping (because those are the things I know best).   

El Primo, Tacodeli, Veracruz all Natural - One does not visit Austin without eating at least one breakfast taco. The breakfast taco should be composed of a flour tortilla, egg, and cheese.   Additional add-ins can include avocado (duh), homemade salsas, bacon or chorizo, and if you are like me, beans.   We ate a boat load of breakfast tacos from a range of places and all were really good in different ways.  I can't rank one above the other so if you're smart, you'll visit all 3 spots.  Veracruz all Natural does win points for the absurdly large and utterly delicious mango agua frescas (it's a must order).

Elizabeth St. Cafe - An utterly charming and absurdly adorable Vietnamese cafe.   Their poached shrimp, avocado, and cilantro spring rolls have me dreaming of endless varieties that Tyler and I will consume with abandon this summer (there is no dish more suited for hot summer weather then spring rolls and peanut sauce). The whole menu is exciting, in-expensive, and very delicious.  They also make outstanding macarons in incredibly unusual flavors (I'm looking at you everything bagel) and a dreamy bouchon (which is a fancy French brownie).      

Josephine House - I had this as a maybe on my initial list of places to eat in Austin.  It seemed to hyped for me and I was worried it wouldn't be worth it.  Oh how wrong I was.  I don't think I would visit for dinner but their brunch is magical.   The morning pastries are incredible - buckwheat scones with jam, carrot cake with beets and pistachios.  It's just all around exciting breakfast foods done well and what more does anyone want?   

Launderette - Looking at a restaurants menu, it's easy for me to tell if I'm going to like the place.  Does it do small plates?  Do they have a section devoted to vegetables?   Are there things served on toast?  This restaurant checked off all of those boxes so it was no surprise that we ate there and loved it.   The labneh with beet hummus and everything crackers was light, fresh, and exciting.  (I need to figure out how to recreate.)  Oh! They have adorable birthday cake ice cream sandwiches that are insanely good and are also on my list of things I need to make a version of.  I see them being the dessert of 2016 in our house.    

Uptown Modern - As a mid-century modern junkie, I felt as if I died and went to my version of heaven.  The furnititure is beautiful and decently priced.   They sell an assortment of mid-century knick-knacks as well in case you want something that you can easily transport on a plane.

The Austin Antique Mall - Tyler and I spent several hours perusing this 30,000 square foot space. They have SO MUCH STUFF and not awful junk stuff.  I picked up a pair of amazing 1950's science prints that I'm looking to frame.  It's impossible to leave this place without buying something.   

Uncommon Objects - This place is a madhouse on the weekends since it's on the main strip in downtown Austin, but it has an awesome selection of well edited antiques/curiosities.   Some stuff is priced high, but if you dig through, you'll find some treasures (I picked up some cool candlesticks for $10).   

thoughts on seattle, wa (and the best things we ate).

I didn't expect it to happen, but I fell in love with Seattle.  It' hard for me to articulate why, but the city just pulled me in.  It's urban and yet it has the feel of a small town.  Seattle is big, it felt far bigger then New York, but it's divided into pockets and each pocket has it's own identity.  You could criss-cross the entire city and feel as if you've traveled a great distance and yet you only traveled a couple of miles.  And the restaurant scene!  Oh man.  It's freaking phenomenal.  I swear I am ready to move there.  So ready in fact that at one point, I was on Zillow and Indeed looking at apartments and jobs trying to envision what my life would look like if I left the East Coast for the West Coast.  

Tyler and I have already discussed heading back out there next year and visiting Seattle and Vancouver.  Practically everyone I met said if you like food you have to visit Vancouver so you know I am sold on it.  But we aren't here to discuss future meals.  We are here to discuss the best things I ate in Seattle.  Without further ado...

The Walrus and The Carpenter was one of those restaurants that I was petrified I wasn't going to have the opportunity to try.  It doesn't take reservations, it's the size of a shoebox, etc.  But the afternoon before we headed home, Tyler and I stopped by for an early bird dinner.  I think it worked out for the best because early birds get the happy hour special of half off oysters.  What I realized is that I still don't love oysters. To be honest, I don't really get the point of them but I do love clams and I really LOVE sardines with a parsley and walnut gremolata.  I will be dreaming about both those dishes until the end of time.   

The best dessert on this trip goes to the chocolate, banana, peanut cake from Honore Artisan Bakery. When I tell you it was dreamy and probably one of the best desserts I've ever eaten, I'm not lying. Chocolate fudge surrounded a roasted banana and caramelized peanut center.  My description will never do it justice, just go and buy it.   

Pizzeria Gabbiano is open only on weekdays and sells a Roman style pizza by weight.  The beauty of this is that you can get a little bit of everything and have your own little pizza tasting.  I was particularly fond of the peppers and corn bechamel pizza but you really can't go wrong with any of them.  A perfect spot to hit after walking through the Chihuly Museum.   

If you are in search of drinks, try Damm the Weather.  The food is supposed to be killer as well but we had sushi reservations that night and I wasn't going to spoil my appetite.   

The sushi at Mashiko is hands down the best sushi I have ever had.  Anyone can fly in fancy fish from Tokyo but it takes a really special restaurant to go the sustainable route and make sushi that is exciting, delicious, and down-right addicting.  I ate a lot of fish I had never had before and I got to witness a truly passionate sushi chef in her element, both of those things made this a truly incredible meal.  Also! They take reservations and if you make one, be smart and sit at the sushi counter.   

The Whale Wins, a sister restaurant to the Walrus and the Carpenter served the kind of food I can never get enough of i.e. small plates of vegetables prepared in remarkably exciting ways.  Everything we ate I would happily eat again. Especially the dragon's tongue beans with feta and red pepper and the grilled zucchini bread with creme fraiche (which I may have already made my own version of).  Every city should have at least 3 restaurants like this.       

And last but not least, Cafe Besalu whose croissants and cheese danishes are some of the best I have ever had.  We were fortunate to be staying about 2 blocks away which means I ate a cheese danish everyday for 3 days straight and I'm not sorry I did that. There seasonal fruit danishes are equally exciting.  If your smart, you'll get a little bit of everything and share with someone you love.  

thoughts on portland, oregon.

As an overenthusiastic foodie, I've had a desire for several years now to visit the Pacific Northwest. Besides San Francisco, no city seemed more populated with Farmers Markets, restaurants and doughnut shops then Portland and Seattle; for that reason I had to go.  

Portland was the first stop on our trip and while it's a great city, it's not one I could live in.  Mostly because I had a hard time figuring out what anyone actually does besides drink really good coffee and compost.  It just doesn't feel like a city.  It feels like a college town or maybe a place where people live after they made their millions in New York (because that's the only way one could afford such fancy coffee and beer).  It's a little crunchy (I've never seen one store sell so many types of kombucha).  Not necessarily a bad thing but perhaps not the thing for me (though I do love me some kombucha). 

I barely made a dent in the food scene. There was only so much time and stomach space.  But we did eat some pretty epic things and below is the list of my favorites.  This is in no way a definite list, just the things I actually got a chance to eat and loved.   

The Portland Farmers Market is the farmer's market of my dreams (it's Saturdays at PSU which is near the Pearl District).  I probably love it as much as I do because it was the first thing we did in Portland on a day with near perfect weather.  It's a good combination of farmers market and food hall and it's HUGE.   I refrained from spending all my money on peaches, apples, kombucha, and fish, because as Tyler reminded me, it would not survive the trip home.  

Blue Star Doughnuts  are pretty darn good.  We sampled a variety over the course of two trips and my favorites were the hard cider fritter and the classic buttermilk.  I preferred the buttermilk based doughnuts to the yeasted variety but that may be personal preference.  All are phenomenal.   

Apizza Schools.  I realize as a born and raised New Yorker, that the idea of eating pizza on the west coast is absurd (we have enough good pizza in New York!), but I did just that.  I had read a lot about this place from the guys over at Serious Eats and I figured I had to try it.  It was really good and well worth the meal  (half Margharita/half Diablo Blanco is the way to go).  The pizza is New York style and it's surprisingly light.  Not in the sense that you feel as if you were cheated on toppings, but it's graceful (is it weird to call pizza graceful?). Also, their antipasta veggie plate is a phenomenal way to start your meal.  

Ava Gene's and I have a love hate relationship.  We ate some really incredible things there (the corn and chicken liver crostini was most notable) but the service was awful - the server clearly forgot to put in our order so it took a very long time to get our food. I'm going to give them the benefit of the doubt, but the service thing really bugs me.  Especially since the server knew we were waiting forever (the table next to us got all of their food before us and ordered after us) and didn't try and make it up to us in anyway.  But the crostini was so good, I'm keeping them on here. 

Nong's Khao Man Gai is the place everyone tells you to visit in Portland. The abridged story is that the owner came over to Portland penniless and started a foodcart that everyone loved. Eventually she was able to open another cart and then a small store front.  Feel free to Google the name for more details (Google can tell you more then I can).   I almost cried because I thought we weren't going to get the chance to try it but lucky for me everything worked out. The menu is short and sweet.  The food is simple and satisfying.  I got the chicken with peanut sauce and loved it because what is there not to love about peanut sauce.   While there I saw one of the contestants from Top Chef and totally kept my cool.   

New Seasons Market is the supermarket of my dreams.  It's like a Whole Foods and specialty food store wrapped in one.  They were selling 20+ types of local hot sauce when we were there.  That my friends is my kind of supermarket.  I wouldn't call this a must hit, but if you are near one, definitely peruse!  

nashville - some thoughts and a guide.

Nashville.  Nashville is a funny little city.  I would actually go so far as to say it's a tale of two cities with two distinct personalities.  On the one hand you have the history of country music and a lot of old Southern money and on the other hand you have a lot of flannel, craft beer shops, and hipsters galore.  It is very old-world meets new world.  

I like to play a game when I visit a new city and ask myself if I could live there.  Nashville I hate to say failed that test.  The driving (SO MUCH DRIVING to get anywhere), the heat (it was 75 and sunny on Monday I can't even imagine what it's like in August), and the plethora of cowboy boots just didn't win me over (though their housing prices, coffee shops, cheap craft beers, and large number of parks did score it points).  Nashville is a city that doesn't feel like a city.  It's charming in many ways but everything is so spread out that some of that charm get's lost.  

And then there is the food.  We ate some good things, we ate some REALLY good things, and then we ate some meh things.  My thoughts on southern food is that southern food feels heavy.  I don't know if it's the portion sizes or that they love butter but some of it just felt so overly indulgent.   We even ordered a plate of southern vegetables one night and couldn't finish it for the life of us.  You should always be able to finish your vegetables.

But we are here to talk about the best of the best and below is my list of Nashville favorites.  The things I would return for and the things I will try and re-create.

1 - Baked Beans at Martin's BBQ. I know you are probably wondering how baked beans could make the list and not pork or brisket but the beans stole the show.  Baked beans can be awful - cloyingly sweet, mushy, and so many other things.  These beans were smoky and meaty with a touch of (molasses-esq) sweetness.  They are everything a bowl of baked beans should be and what I will be using as my bean bench mark going forward. 

2 - Black Eyed Pea Salad at Hattie B's Hot Chicken.  Look, I went to Nashville thinking hot chicken was going to be one of the greatest things I have ever eaten.  It is spicy fried chicken, how can it not by dynamite?   But it fell short.  It wasn't bad (it was good fried chicken) but it lacked the the heat that I was expecting (and yes, we ordered hot).  But! the black eyed pea salad I could have eaten a quart of.  It was tart and acidic with some nice crunch from the peppers,  I found it to be the perfect counterpart to all that fried chicken and I plan on making bowls of it this summer to serve with all our BBQ.   Oh the banana pudding wasn't bad either.   

3 - Sorghum Pie at Husk.  Husk may be one of the most charming restaurants I've ever eaten in.  It's an old home that they converted into a restaurant and it's just beautiful.  High ceilings, fancy chandeliers, the whole shebang oh! and the food is all sourced from local farms which is why I love it so. Everything we ate was very good (the homemade charcuterie plate was particularly memorable) but the best of the best was the pie. Sorghum tastes like a cross between molasses and honey and it makes for one killer pie filling (kind of like the inside of a pecan pie but not nearly as sweet and without pecans).  Said slice was served with orange sorbet and grilled pecans making for one of the best desserts I've had in a long time.  

4 - Coconut Cookie at Barista Parlor.  Barista Parlor is one of those gorgeous coffee shops.  All open space and charming baristas in chambray aprons.  It almost feels like a coffee cliche but it's so beautiful that I couldn't bring myself to find it pretentious.  It just kind of works.  We didn't drink coffee (it was too late in the day for me) but we did get some cookies for the plane ride home.  The coconut one was thin and chewy (how they did that I do not know) with a whole lot of butter and a bit of chocolate for good measure.  I already know what I will be making this weekend.   

5 - Pretty much everything at Rolf and Daughters.  The consensus between Tyler and I was that our meal at Rolf and Daughters was one of the best we've had in a long time.  It. Was. So. Good.  It felt fresh and modern and it was how we like to eat - small plates with a little bit of everything.  The standout dishes were broccoli the crostini (to be recreated this weekend), a sweet potato dish with lime and yogurt (also to be recreated), and the chicken liver pate with currant mostarda.   I will continue to dream about all of it.  

Other things to note - 8th and Roast for good coffee, Craft Brewed for good beers, Belle Meade Plantation for an awesome tour of a Southern home, White's Merchantile for shopping (it's like an old fashioned general store), and Nelson's Green Briar Distillery for a super whiskey tour.   

nashville (looking for tips).

I do well when I have things to plan and look forward to.  I like goals and the idea of moving towards things.  Last year I was spoiled with a lot of planning (Wedding! Honeymoon! Life in general!) and this year I've felt a little lost.  So after stalking Google flights I finally pulled the trigger and booked Tyler and I a flight to Nashville. 

I've been dying to visit Nashville for awhile now it just exudes casual coolness.  It doesn't hurt that they have a food called "hot chicken" which I am basically dreaming of eating.  It's essentially spicy fried chicken WHAT IS THERE NOT TO LOVE?!

So if you have any suggestions - sites to see (I have the Belmont Mansion on my list), shopping, or food tips, please share.  I will be dieting from now until March 13th so I can eat massive amounts of chicken and biscuits - totally worth it.   

Image via Bon Appetit.

a food lover's guide to (portland and the surrounding area) maine.

My better half is a born and raised Maine boy.  For as long as we've been together, there have been annual pilgrimages to Maine (usually over the 4th of July weekend since I am more partial to Maine when the sun is shinning and the weather is warm).  Over the years, I've fallen in love with the state (and particularly Portland), which feels like a quaint New England town with a decent amount of hipster Brooklyn flair and some of the best eating around.  On this past trip I managed to hit many phenomenal eateries (some new and some old favorites) and I figured it's about time I share my list of the best Portland, Maine (and the surrounding areas) has to offer (though this is not all-inclusive, that list would be far too long). Most of these spots are food related (duh) but on occasion I do things other then eat (I'm as shocked as you are), so there are a few shops thrown in for good measure! (The antiquing in Maine is like nothing else.)

Miyake - If you are in anyway a sushi-aholic, this is the place for you.  Miyake is an adorable man with an inventive style who is keen on using local Main produce (some of which he raises himself!) in all of his dishes. Splurge on the omakase, it's an excellent value and always wonderful.  The lobster roll is amazing and is something I often dream about.

The Holy Donut - I may have stopped here twice and over the course of the trip and tried 8 different doughnut flavors (no shame). These are AMAZING.  The are made with Maine potato flour which makes for a most flavorful doughnut.  I am partial to the coconut though the mojito doughnut was pretty swell as well.  Go early in the morning for the best selection. I am already dreaming about when I can have one again. 

Palace Diner - Oh this place.  I am in love.  Located about 20 minutes outside of Portland in an old train car that's been around since the twenties is the diner of my dreams.  A former NYC chef (from Gramercy Tavern!) has taken over and is turning out elevated diner classics.  The food is fresh, uses lots of local ingredients, and is rib-sticking satisfying.  If you go on Sunday you may be lucky enough to find the fried chicken sandwich on the menu, if that is the case YOU MUST ORDER IT (just look at that picture).  Best I ever had.  I want one right now. The egg dishes looked pretty awesome as well.  The french toast is dreamy.  
  
Central Provisions - I have a soft spot for small plate restaurants (I love eating bites of all different things). This is one of the best with a menu approach similar to the small plate restaurants I ate at in California.  They don't focus on one type of food, instead the approach is to look at what's seasonal and create a dish around that.  I fell hard for the beef with sriracha and peanuts.  The space is also beautiful.  I have plans to return for brunch.  

Leroux Kitchen - If you are on the hunt for a random kitchen object, this is the place for you.  Whisks of all shapes and sizes, knives galore, and a superb spice section makes it a favorite place of mine.  The staff is super helpful and they carry a nice selection of Made in the USA products which is something that always makes me happy to see.  

Two Fat Cats - Whoopie pies (chocolate and pumpkin) and the best blueberry pie around.  You shouldn't need to know anything else.  

Portland Hunt and Alpine Club - Cocktails.  So many wonderfully delicious cocktails.  The Brown Derby (bourbon, grapefruit, and agave) may be my new favorite drink.  The space has that Scandanavian vibe going for it (something I love) and it's the kind of place I could happily spend an entire Friday night at (it's also the kind of place I wish we had in Jersey City). They have some good looking small-plates if you are in need of some food with your drinks.  

Scarborough Lobster - Located outside of Portland, it has my favorite lobster (and crab!) rolls.  It doesn't look like much, but it is damm good.  

Portland Salvage - Someday, when I have more money and a place Tyler and I call our own, I will come here to outfit our home.  I could spend hours aimlessly wandering through the maze of industrial salvaged objects (clawfoot tubs! filing cabinets! old doors!) unearthing treasures on the 4 different floors.  The stuff is beautiful and reminds you of a time when things were made in America and quality was of the utmost importance.   

Micucci Grocery - Fluffy Sicilian pizza slices the size of your head.  If you can finish more then one slice you deserve a prize.  

Portland Flea for All - An indoor weekend flea market held in Portland (and next to Portland Salvage) with a nice mix of vintage clothing, antique kitchen objects, and furniture.  Prices are reasonable and the assortment is interesting (cake stands and smoky glass bowls were a couple of the items that caught my eye).  I left with a most adorable six inch cast iron skillet (already seasoned!) that has become my new best friend.  

merida (in pictures) and notes.

Merida (and the surrounding area) in pictures.

Merida itself, while beautiful in a nostalgic kind of way, is not the kind of place you would seek out as a destination.  Instead it makes for a wonderful central base for traveling to different destinations in the Yucatan. The Yucatan is chock full of beautiful things.  Ancient Mayan temples, cenotes, beach towns, and haciendas that remind you of the riches and wealth that once lived in Mexico.  Here are some of my favorite things and places I suggest you seek out.  

-Casa Lecanda is the kind of  hotel that manages to transport you to a different more magical place.  It's breathtakingly beautiful with the pool that am still dreaming about.  The service is impeccable and the rooms are gorgeous.  Why can't all hotels be this great?

-I didn't eat much (or as much as I planned on eating) in Merida since I got absurdly sick on day 2 so I rather shockingly can't discuss much of the food.  But!  We did eat at Olivia which is an Italian restaurant (since Merida has a strong European influence) and it was amazing (so good we ate their twice).  In New York they could charge 3 times the price!  The pastas were all homemade, the bread was all freshly baked, and there was a roasted red pepper sauce on the goat chesse ravioli that I am still dreaming about and plan on recreating once peppers are in season.  (There was also a brocolli pesto that has me rethinking everything I ever thought about pesto.)

-The Hacienda Yaxcopoil is a breathtaking place that shows you how the wealthy once lived.  

-Chichen Itza is the main draw when people visit the Yucatan.  We decided to forgo it since most things we read described as a tourist trap chock full of people selling you things.  The Mayapan Ruins are a much better destination, are far less crowded, and just as fascinating.  

-Sotuta De Peon is a an amazing hacienda turned hotel turned tour site where you can learn about the former rope business that turned Merida into one of the wealthiest cities.  It's also home to a cenote which as I've said before is like swimming in a magical underwater dream.  A must visit 

merida, mexico.

It's only once I leave New York, the land of black overcoats and black jeans that I remember how much I love color.  























Mexico is so full of color and patterns and light.  The vibrancy kills me.  Tyler and I keep contemplating about which of the 517 dilapidated casa's and hacienda's that we pass on every walk should we buy.  We would fix it up and make it our winter retreat.  We would hide out during the month of February eating avocado, papaya, and limes.  We would drink tequilla on the rocks.  We would gorge on tacos and pizza (because apparently Merida has a big Italian influence. All my favorite foods in one place.  This is paradise.) 

This place is so beautiful it hurts.  It's also serves as a reminder of the wealth and riches that used to reside here. Now it's nothing more then the bones of it's former glory.  If I had millions and billions I would return this city to it's former state.  I would make it a place people seek out.  A place people see people pictures of feel a sense of awe and wonderment.  

So. Much. Color. So much to love.

hudson and rhinebeck (a food lover's guide.)

The boy and I migrated north last weekend for a weekend away from the city.  I rented us a house on AirBnB (my absolute favorite site at the moment) in the adorable town of Tivoli.  I hadn’t been north to the Hudson/Rhinebeck area in years.  My parents used to take my siblings and I for day trips so we could explore a new area and they could antique.  My appreciation for such activities was at an all time low when I was 10, but now that I am 28 I can appreciate such things (sorry it took me so long Mom and Dad!). 

We filled our weekend with antiquing, eating, and exploration.  It was amazingly fun especially since there are a lot of hidden food gems up there.  Below are some of my favorites.  I strongly encourage you to make the trip up there; it’s a breathtakingly beautiful area with a lot of stuff to do (Hiking! Pick your own farms!  Kayaking on the river!)

All of the below towns are about a 20 min drive from Tivoli.  If you are looking for a place to stay I can’t recommend this place enough. 

Rhinebeck

-Cinnamon Indian Cusine: 5856 Rte. 9 – Really excellent Indian food with very sweet servers.  (The sag paneer was excellent!)

-Bread Alone: 45 E. Market St. – An excellent selection of breakfast pastries but the real reason to come is for the lunch where all there sandwiches are made on their awesome homemade bread.

-Rhinebeck Farmers Market: 61 East Main St. – This Sunday only market has an excellent selection of vendors selling a wide variety of things.  I fell for the man selling homemade honey, the tamale lady, and the butcher with locally raised pork and beef (with very reasonable prices to boot). 

-Del's Dairy Creme: 6780 Albany Post Rd. - A super old school drive up ice cream shop that makes you nostalgic for childhood.  I recomend the $3.50 ice cream sundae!

Hudson

-Café Le Perche: 230 Warren St – Let’s talk about the cheese danish I had here because it was the BEST CHEESE DANISH I HAVE EVER EATEN.  Yes it was and I am stilling dreaming about it and trying to figure out how I can get another one and really soon.  The front part of the restaurant has carry out breads and pastries, the back part is the dine-in area.  The french toast according to my other half was one of the best he has ever had (and he takes french toast seriously).

-Baba Louies: 517 Warren St – Superb thin crust sourdough pizza with a plethora of pizza toppings and unique pies that you can choose from.  They also have a gluten free pizza available if you are one of the unlucky people who can’t have gluten.  A favorite with the locals (or so it seems based on how busy they were.)

-Bonfiglio and Bread: 748 Warren St – An adorable shop with really, really, good rustic style breads (reminiscent of Tartine in San Francisco).  They also sell divine pastries and an excellent cup of coffee. 

-Hudson Farmers Market: 6^th and Columbia – Saturday only farmers market.  Like the Rhinebeck one there is a wonderful selection of produce and local products.  We loved the beer from the Chatam Brewing Company, the wide variety of cheeses, and the wonderful produce.  You can basically buy everything you could possibly need to make dinner (and a really good dinner it would be)!

california eats.

California has stolen my heart or at least stolen my stomach. 

From top left to right. 

Picture 1 and 2 - Roasted tomato salsa and a chile verde burrito from Papalote.  The roasted tomato salsa is absurdly amazing.  I mean I could and would eat it by the bucketful (it would be unbelieveable on an egg scramble which is why I bought a jar to go and carried it around in my purse for the remainder of the day.  Hiking San Francisco hills while carrying a jar of salsa is not recommended .  The burrito was voted best in San Fran and the boy and I were on starvation mode so we got one to share as well.  This thing is the size of your head and has a lot going on.  I personally found it a little overwhelming (maybe that was because I agreed to add avocado, beans and a whole bunch of other things).  I don't think I could ever eat an entire one which says a lot.  

Picture 3 and 4 - La Taqueria.  This is one of those old school, been around forever kind of places (aka the kind of places I love).  The line is long but moves quickly.  The difference between this burrito and the one at Papalote is the fact that they don't use rice.  Just meat and salsa and whatever over add ons you choose.  We had the carnitas burrito as was suggested to me and it was absurdly good.  There was a level of purity to this burrito that was kind of lost on the other one.  The flavor of the meat really came through and you could eat a whole one and not feel like you wanted to die after.  I already informed Tyler we are coming here once more before we leave because I keep thinking about the quesadilla I saw some people eating and now I want one.  

Picture 5 - Kings Bakery was an old school Mexican style bakery, the kind of thing I haven't seen since I was in Mexico City.  In the inside the wall is covered with an array of different breads and pastries.  You pick a plastic tray and a set of tongs and basically load up on whatever you choose.  Nothing is more then 2 bucks and most of the stuff averages out at about 70 cents.  We got the fluffiest sweet bread ever.  The top of the bread was dusted with a nice layer of sugar giving in a nice crunchy bite.

Picture 6 and 7 - Passionfruit croissant and Thai ginger scone from Craftsman and Wolves.  I had read about this place from a post Desserts for Breakfast did a couple months back and then a friend from San Fran also mentioned it and once I hear more then one person tell me about it then I know I have to go.  The inside of this place is basically how I wish my future home would look like (all wood beams, high ceilings, and rustic tables).  The food is incredible.  I have a weakness for any and all things passionfuit so this croissant is pretty much the epitome of everything I love in this world.  It's tender and flaky, sweet and tart.  It's the kind of thing that makes you want to wake up each morning and eat.  The scone bridges the line between savory and sweet in a way that's absolutely perfect.  The green curry balances out the ginger and coconut in the most unusual of ways.  Not everyone would love this (I know Tyler wasn't a huge fan) but it makes you think about how different sweets can be in different cultures.