butternut soup with brown butter and nutmeg crème fraîche

Before you make a Thomas Keller recipe, you will read through the recipe and think to yourself this is insane. Thomas Keller recipes are absurdly particular, some may even say anal in their instructions.   Your immediate reaction will be to think you can cut corners - that it doesn't really matter how thick you cut your leeks and onions.  Roasting and cooking my squash isn't actually necessary. But, resist the urge to cut corners.  While the recipe may seem absolutely mad, you will be rewarded for your ability to follow instructions to a T.   

I was apprehensive of this particular squash soup recipe.  It seemed too finicky and particular for my tastes.   But the commentators raved and I remembered that Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc chocolate chip cookie recipe is my absolute favorite so I decided to give it a go.   

In short, this soup is kind of amazing.  

I've made a lot of squash soups in my day but this one is killer.  Impossibly flavorful, absurdly beautiful, and incredibly comforting.  It works for both an up-scale dinner party and a lazy Sunday evening dinner at home in your PJ's.   Despite all of the steps (and particulars of the recipe) it's kind of easy.  I don't know how such flavor is coaxed out of the simplest of ingredients, but somehow, someway it happens and it's a beautiful thing.     

Butternut Soup with Brown Butter and Nutmeg Crème Fraîche
Recipe adapted from Food 52 and Thomas Keller

Serves 6 

My inability to read a recipe properly left me roasting the entire squash and not just the bulb.  The soup was still killer so I don't think I harmed it any way but I imagine it is better to cook it as written.  Oh! A sprinkle of smoked spanish paprika at the very end is a very killer addition.   

One 3 to 3 1/2-pound butternut squash

2 tablespoons canola oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 sage sprigs

1 cup thinly sliced (1/8-inch thick) leeks, white and light green parts only

½ cup thinly sliced (1/8-inch thick) carrots

½ cup thinly sliced (1/8-inch thick) shallots

½ cup thinly sliced (1/8-inch thick) onions

6 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed

2 tablespoons honey

6 cups vegetable stock, plus extra if necessary

Bouquet Garni made of 8 sprigs thyme, 2 sprigs Italian parsley, 2 bay leaves, and 1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns, all wrapped in a packet made of 2 green leek leaves

4 tablespoons (2 ounces) unsalted butter

¼ cup crème fraîche or sour cream

Freshly grated nutmeg

Canola oil (if using sage leaves)

12 sage leaves or 1 tablespoon minced chives

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Extra virgin olive oil

For the soup: Preheat the oven to 350° F. Line a small baking sheet with aluminum foil or parchment.

Cut the neck off the squash and set it aside. Cut the bulb in half and scoop out and discard the seeds. Brush each half inside and out with about 1 1/2 teaspoons of the canola oil. Sprinkle the cavities with salt and pepper and tuck a sprig of sage into each. Place cut side down on the baking sheet and roast for about 1 hour, or until completely tender.

Remove the squash from the oven and let cool, then scoop out and reserve the flesh (discard sage).

Meanwhile, using a paring knife or a peeler, carefully peel away the skin from the neck of the squash until you reach the bright orange flesh. Cut the flesh into 1/2-inch pieces (you should have about 4 cups).

Put the remaining canola oil in a stockpot over medium-high heat, add the leeks, carrots, shallots, and onions and cook, stirring often, for about 6 minutes. Add the diced squash, garlic, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and cook gently for 3 minutes, reducing the heat as necessary to keep the garlic and squash from coloring. Stir in the honey and cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the stock and bouquet garni, bring to a simmer and cook for 10 to 15 minutes or until the squash is tender.

Add the roasted squash and simmer gently for about 30 minutes for the flavors to blend. Remove from the heat and discard the bouquet garni. Transfer the soup to a blender, in batches, and puree. Strain the soup through a fine sieve into a bowl (optional). Taste the soup and adjust the seasoning. Let the soup cool, then refrigerate until ready to serve.

To complete: Place the crème fraiche or sour cream  in a chilled small metal bowl and stir in nutmeg to taste. Whisk with a small whisk until the crème fraiche/sour cream holds a shape. Cover and refrigerate.

Reheat the soup. If it is too thick, add a little more vegetable stock. Heat a medium skillet over high heat. When it is very hot, add the butter and rotate the skillet over the heat as necessary to brown the butter evenly, scraping up any bits that settle in the bottom. As soon as the foaming has subsided and the butter is a hazelnut brown, pour it into the pot of soup. Be careful not to leave the butter over the heat too long, as it can change from rich brown to black in seconds.

Meanwhile, if using sage leaves (optional), heat 1/8 inch of canola oil in a small skillet. When the oil is very hot, add the sage and cook for 30 to 45 seconds, turning the leaves to crisp them on both sides. When the bubbling stops, the moisture in the leaves will have evaporated and the leaves will be crisp. Drain the sage on paper towels and sprinkle with salt.

Ladle the soup into six serving bowls. Top each with a dollop of crème fraîche. Grind some black pepper over the top and garnish each with 2 sage leaves or some minced chives. Drizzle a little olive oil over the top.

kabocha squash toasts with miso jam.

In my humble opinion, the best way to get food into one’s mouth is not via a fork but via a slice of bread. 

I am very adept at using bread as a utensil and doing so allows you to explore so many toppings.  Avocado and feta! Peanut butter, apple butter, and chia seeds (a personal favorite at the moment)! Roasted tomatoes and burrata!  Do you see how many possibilities exist? SO MANY.  It’s kind of exhausting but it also ensures you will never ever be bored.  Toasted bread and toppings is the answer to all of the “I’m hungry what should I eat?” questions. 

When I stumble across a recipe that encourages one to use toast as a base for all of my favorite things (miso! cheese! squash!) you can pretty much guarantee I will be making it.  

These toasts are kind of incredible. Sweet and salty miso jam is the perfect base for tender squash (roasted with just a hint of smoked parika) and then layered with creamy goat cheese and crunchy salty pumpkin seeds. These are infinitely pop-able and absurdly addicting.  They also further validate my thought that everything is best when served on a slice of bread.  

Kabocha Squash Toasts with Miso Jam

Recipe adapted from Tasting Table

Yield: 4 servings

For the Miso Jam

¼ cup red or white miso paste

¼ cup honey

2½ tablespoons water

For the Kabocha Squash Toasts

¼ medium kabocha squash (12 ounces), sliced ⅛-inch thick

½ teaspoon smoked paprika

1 tablespoon olive oil

12 ½-inch thick baguette slices, sliced on a bias, toasted

Miso jam

¼ cup goat cheese, softened

3 tablespoons pumpkin seeds, toasted

Pinch of flaky sea salt

Olive oil for drizzling

Make the miso jam: Whisk the red miso paste, honey and water in a small saucepan over medium heat until the mixture comes to jam consistency, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat, transfer to an airtight container and let the jam cool to room temperature. Store in the refrigerator and use within 2 months. Makes about ⅓ cup.

Make the pumpkin toasts: Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.  On a parchment lined baking sheet, places your pieces of squash and sprinkle them with the olive oil and smoked paprika.  Roast for about 10 minutes or until the squash is tender and just beginning to brown.  Remove from the oven and let cool to room temperature. 

To assemble, spoon about 1 – 2 teaspoons of the miso jam over each toast (depending on the size of your bread). Place a few pieces of squash on each toast. Crumble the goat cheese on top and sprinkle each toast with pumpkin seeds. Sprinkle with salt and drizzle with some olive oil. 

spicy miso butternut squash soup.

I've got the flu (Happy 2014).

I can't bring myself to eat anything so instead of eating, I've spent the last 48 hours doing nothing but watching the Food Network and the Cooking Channel, drinking copious amounts of tea, and cooking in between hours spent lying on the couch.  (I am the worst sick person ever and can't lie down for more then a couple of hours.)

This soup was the result of me really wanting to use my new immersion blender and trying to make something super comforting. It's stick to your ribs thick (and healthy) with an incredible umami kick from the miso and tahini.  Those flavors pair incredibly well the sweet squash and tart lime juice.  All you need to serve it with is a thick slice of crusty bread to sop up any remnants.

Spicy Miso Butternut Squash Soups

Serves 3

3 cloves of garlic, minced
1 inch piece of ginger, grated
1 tablespoon coconut oil
1/4 - 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon cumin
1 quart chicken or vegetable stock
2 cups butternut squash or pumpkin puree
3 tablespoons white miso
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1/4 cup cilantro, minced
1 tablespoon tahini
Juice of 1 lime
Sesame seeds and additional cilantro for sprinkling

In a large pot, heat the coconut oil over medium heat.  Add the garlic and the ginger and cook, stirring on occasion until fragrant, about 1 minute.  Add the cayenne and the cumin and stir to combine.  Gradually pour in the vegetable or chicken stock.  Add in the squash puree, miso, rice vinegar, cilantro, and tahini. Cook for about 10 minutes allowing the flavors to meld.

Blend the soup using an immersion blender or pour it in a blender or Cusinart to blend. Pour the juice of the lime into the soup.  Serve immediately with a sprinkle of sesame seeds and cilantro if desired.

butternut squash galette.

My mom gave me sad news over Thanksgiving.  She had gone through all of her old Gourmets (we are talking about 20 years worth) and gotten rid of them before I had the chance to go through them as well.  I was devastated thinking of all the recipes that were recycled before I was able to deem their worthiness. My consolation prize was that a small stack remained that I proceeded to pour over while Bandit (aka the worlds greatest dog) and I watched the Real Housewives (aren't holidays created so you have an excuse to watch bad TV?).  

This recipe was one of the few that I photocopied to bring home. It sounded simple yet elegant.  The kind of thing a French woman would serve her chic friends for lunch.  (Because don't we all want to pretend we are a chic French woman?) The end result was just as simple and elegant as I imagined.  What I didn't count on was how utterly satisfying it would be.  This is a dish that feels just at home on a lazy Sunday evening with the boy as it does at an fancy Saturday brunch with the girls.  Creamy goat cheese, sweet squash, and tender leeks get tossed together and then encased in a hearty crust.  The whole thing emerges from the oven looking perfectly rustic in that impossibly French way.  It's the epitome of winter comfort food.  

Butternut Squash Galette

Recipe adapted from Gourmet 

For Pastry

¾ cup whole wheat flour

½ cup all-purpose flour

1 stick cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 tablespoon chopped sage leaves

½ teaspoon fine sea salt

4 to 6 tablespoons ice-cold water

1 large egg, lightly beaten

For Filling

1 (2-pound) butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 2- by 1/4 -inch slices (4 cups)

½ teaspoon fine sea salt plus a generous pinch for the leeks

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons olive oil, divided

2 leeks (white and pale green parts only), thinly sliced crosswise

6 ounces soft mild goat cheese, crumbled

Make dough: Pulse flours, butter, sage, and sea salt in a food processor until mixture resembles coarse meal. Drizzle ice water evenly over mixture and pulse until it just forms a ball. (Do not overwork dough, or pastry will be tough.) Gently press dough into a 5-inch disk and chill, wrapped in plastic wrap, until firm, at least 1 hour.

Make filling while dough chills:  Preheat oven to 450°F with rack in middle.

Toss squash with sea salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, and 1 tablespoon oil and arrange in 1 layer in a 17-by 12-inch shallow baking pan or a baking sheet. Roast, stirring once halfway through roasting, until golden brown on edges and undersides, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove squash from oven and reduce oven temperature to 375°F.

Meanwhile, wash leeks, then cook in remaining 2 tablespoons oil with a pinch of sea salt in a 10-inch heavy skillet over medium heat, partially covered, stirring occasionally, until tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl to cool slightly. Add squash, goat cheese, the other 1/4 teaspoon pepper and toss gently.

Make galette: Roll out dough into a 13-inch round on a lightly floured surface with a lightly floured rolling pin. Transfer to a baking sheet. Arrange filling in an even layer in center of dough, leaving a 2- to 3-inch border. Fold dough in on itself to cover outer rim of filling, pleating dough as necessary. Brush pastry with beaten egg and bake galette until crust is cooked through and golden on edges, 35 to 45 minutes. Cool on baking sheet on a rack 10 minutes before serving.

spiced butternut squash and lentil salad.

Come November, this is my default work lunch.  It doesn't look particularly exciting or revolutionary.  It isn't the kind of things that will illicit oohs and ahhs from people as they walk by your desk.  Even the name sounds rather bland and conjures thoughts of healthy hippie food (poor lentils).  

But people, don't fall into the trap of thinking those horribly negative things.  Those thoughts are oh so wrong. This is the kind of salad that I can't get enough of.  A collection of simple ingredients that comes together to produce a complex and flavorful dish. (One that would be pretty perfect on a Thanksgiving buffet.)   

The secret is the smoked Spanish paprika.  Smoked Spanish paprika is my single favorite ingredient.  It transforms everything and I mean everything you put it on.  I love it on scrambled eggs with goat cheese.  I adore it in mashed potatoes or sprinkled on avocado toast.  Here it adds an extra element to the squash.  The intermingling of heat and smoky spice with sweet and tender squash is what makes this dish so special.  It elevates and provides an extra level of dimension especially when paired with crunchy pepitas, tender lentils, and creamy goat cheese.  This is the kind of salad you'll be wanting seconds of.  

Spiced Butternut Squash and Lentil Salad
Recipe adapted from Bon Appetit

The arugula is optional.  Sometimes I add it, sometimes I don't.  Either way, its perfect.  

Serves 4 as a side, 3 as a main 

1 large butternut squash, peeled and diced into 1-inch cubes
3/4 cup French green lentils
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon hot smoked Spanish paprika plus additional for sprinkling 
1/2 teaspoon salt plus additional to taste
1/2 teaspoon pepper plus additional to taste
1 cup goat cheese crumbled
1 - 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/2 cup toasted pepitas
4 cups baby arugula (optional) 

Place lentils in small bowl. Cover with cold water and soak 10 minutes; drain.

Cook lentils in boiling salted water until tender but firm, about 20 - 25 minutes. Drain lentils. Rinse under cold water, then drain.

Preheat oven to 400°F. Place squash in large bowl; toss with 2 tablespoons oil, cumin, paprika, and sea salt. Arrange squash in single layer on baking sheet; roast 20 minutes. Turn squash over. Roast until tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Cool.

Combine lentils, squash, pepitas, and oil from baking sheet with arugula (if using), goat cheese, and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper.  Taste and sprinkle on more smoked paprika if desired. Divide among plates.

spaghetti squash and black bean tacos with queso fresco.

I know what you're thinking.  That the idea of spaghetti squash in a taco sounds absurd.  That the idea of any type of squash in a taco is just absurd and ridiculous but, you should leave logic by the way side and try them.  These tacos are life-changingly good.  I'm still unsure of what makes them so irresistible.  Perhaps its the combination of tender squash, and creamy avocado.  Or the loads of hot sauce mingled with lime and cheese, but whatever it is, these are pretty perfect (I should have never doubted it considering the recipe comes from The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook and Deb can do no wrong in my book).  We ate them twice last week and I imagine these will land on heavy rotation considering how quick, easy, and satisfying they are.  

Spaghetti Squash and Black Bean Tacos with Queso Fresco

Recipe adapted (slightly) from The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook

Serves 4 generously 

3 pounds (1360 grams) spaghetti squash (either 1 large or 2 small)

2 tablespoons (30ml) freshly squeezed lime juice (from about 1 lime)

1 1/2 teaspoons chili powder

1 teaspoon crushed chipotle chili flakes (hot smoked paprika would also work)

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon coarse salt

Sixteen 6 inch corn torillas

One 15-ounce can black beans, drained, and rinsed

4 ounces crumbled queso fresco

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1 avocado, sliced

To serve: Lots of Hot Sauce

Cut the squash in half lengthwise, scoop out the seeds, and roast the halves facedown in an oiled baking pan for about 40 minutes in a 375 degree oven.  

When the squash has finished cooking and cooled slightly, working over a bowl, scrape the squash flesh with a fork, loosening and seperating the strands as you remove it from the skin.  Discard the skin.  In a small bowl, whisk lime juice, with chili powder, crushed chipotle, cumin, and salt.  Pour over the squash strands and gently toss them together.  Taste the squash and adjust seasonings as you wish.  

Heat a dry, heavy skillet over medium-high heat.  Warm and slightly blister each tortilla, about 30 seconds per side.  Transfer with tongs or a spatula to platter and sprinkle with black beans.  Top with some of the squash, some cheese, avocado, and cilantro.  

Serve with tons of hot sauce.